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Massey Harris & Massey Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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My new MF 135

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Cob Nut

10-10-2005 07:28:05




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I"m just buying a MF 135.

I didn"t set out specifically to buy that tractor. I"d had a new Chinese import compact tractor to do my paddock work with, and it got stolen; which was when I thought that perhaps I"d spend the insurance money on an old classic rather than a new piece of plastic. (Call me old fashioned, but I always feel more comfortable with a vehicle made out of metal).

So I found a dealer that looked reliable (I"m no mechanic, but I"ve known a fair few, and I reckon I know a good mechanics workshop from a bad mechanic"s workshop when I see it; and this looked like a good mechanic"s workshop).

Of all the tractors there, it was the 135 which spoke to me. It looked like the tractor for the job. I tried it out and it felt like the tractor for the job. And the more I read about the 135 the more I think I chose a good little tractor.

It"s not going to work all that hard. We"ve got 8 acres to look after, and it"s going to have to work a 6" topper and draw a chain harrow and a roller and a sprayer. Nothing too exacting.

But do any of you guys want to offer any words of wisdom to help me on my way? Things you wish someone had told you when you got your first tractor? Things to look out for or be wary of? It"s all rather exciting - but also a bit daunting.

Also, can anyone tell me when the 135 was first made? This one has a UK registration plate consisting of two letters and three digits. I think that places it in thelate "50s or early "60s; but I"m not quite sure. Again, anyone knwo anything about what that means, age-wise?

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ben uk

10-13-2005 09:50:45




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 Re: My new MF 135 in reply to Cob Nut, 10-10-2005 07:28:05  
yes i agree, make sure the wheels have water in them. Those wheels will spin real easy without.

She will handle everything youre doing with it and much much more with no problems at all.

weve had ours about 4 years. I know it took some real abuse before we got it. And its had its fair share of overloads since we had it. That tractor has dragged some serious weight and never complains. And carried some weight as well on the loader!

To begin with you wont be able to change gear on it on the move. I now have the hang of it, but it takes a while. its probably better just to start in the gear you want to be in.

do you know how the dual stage clutch works? if not, ask someone on here. They will explain it to you.

Change the oil in the backend if it hasnt already been done. and if the "boots" around the gear shifters atre cracked change then. there very cheap bits of rubber but they will save some very expensive oil from getting water in it. found that out the hard way. twice!

that tractor will go on and on, and you will probably sell it for the same amount you paid if not more. especially if its 3 cylinder Perkins diesel.

Enjoy the fun times ahead of you!

Ben

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TRC

10-13-2005 03:40:17




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 Re: My new MF 135 in reply to Cob Nut, 10-10-2005 07:28:05  
I've had my 135 for a couple of years and I love every moment I've spent using it. The one tricky thing I've discovered is that it is common for the transmissions to "hang" in gear because the shifters have a little wear and we have a tendency to lift up on them when we pull them out of gear. If this happens the tractor will be in first or reverse but the shifter will not move. Although I've only had this problem once, it does get your attention (thoughts of major transmission problems). There are plenty of postings on this site that tell you how to solve the problem, but you can avoid it entirely by shifting out of gear with the palm of your hand, pushing down instead of lifting up. Since I learned this I've had no recurrence. Good luck, and enjoy a great tractor.

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gerard

10-11-2005 11:18:36




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 Re: My new MF 135 in reply to Cob Nut, 10-10-2005 07:28:05  
We bought our 135 new about '69. Never liked it -brakes were downright dangerous, it couldn't get any grip (they were known as 'king of the wheelspinners')and it wouldn't pull a two furrow (bottom) plough (plow) to any depth. But ...
got the MF dealer to change brake linings and move the footbrake linkage to the furthest out hole normally used for handbrake. Brakes now first class. These tractors are front-heavy. Remedy? Fill rear tyres (tires) with fluid. Remarkable transformation. Power? Got the local diesel shop to up the fuel pump 10%.
Result? Great tractor - we've still got it and it's my favourite. Latest mod was to fit higher poundage hydraulic pressure release valve (2,800psi) so I can overload it even more. Only thing I ever broke was the splined collar infront of the diff - it's an overload safety - when trying to push an old tree over in first gear low redn.

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DavidP, South Wales

10-10-2005 15:05:33




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 Re: My new MF 135 in reply to Cob Nut, 10-10-2005 07:28:05  
Good for you!!!!
OK, so it may not have power steering and any other gadgets, but what you have got is a piece of MF history. Its well worth looking after. I have a 1965 'Banner Lane' model. (These were made at the Banner Lane factory in Coventry UK.)
There are certainly no problems to look out for. Regular maintenance in the way of checking oil levels, brakes, fan belt adjustment when needed and initially a fuel filter change. Besides the two visible ones there is a 'thimble' filter situated on top of the fuel tap. Due to the shape of the tank this filter will clog as any debris finds its way into the 'well'. Run it very low in fuel and remove the pipe to the lift pump and then the tap. Clean the filter if necessary. If the filter is missing it is probably in the tank. You may be lucky to fish it out. It would be unwise to replace the tap without one. It is worth wrapping some white PTFE tape around the tap thread as it may not be tight enough to seal and be in the correct position for the pipe. To vent the fuel system slacken the plug on top of the rear filter and operate until fuel flows freely. Once this is done you will find two 5/16 screws on the side of the main fuel pump (left front of engine from seat). Slacken both and pump fuel through. You will have a good 'dribble' of clean (airless) fuel or two jets which may pass the tyre....or somewhere in between the two. Nip the screws.
Make sure the 'Stop' control is in. Open the throttle fully and turn the key. Only turn the key in bursts of 15 to 20 seconds at a time. If all is well you should see smoke from the exhaust, then the pump will start 'ticking' and it will burst ito life. If it does not start, bleed some more fuel as there will probably be some air still present. If it does not start follow the front pipe of the three that go upwards from the pump and slacken the nut at the injector and try again. Tighten nut after engine has started or seems about to.

The first 135's came on the market around mid/late 1964. The usual form of UK registration at that time was something like 'ABC 123B' 'A' was used from the beginning of August 1962 to end of July 1963. 'B' from August 63 to July 64 and so on. I do not recognise your number as being from the UK. I am not sure about Northern or Southern Ireland.
Your tractor cannot be any older than 1964. PLease come back if you need any help or tips however small.
Regards
David P

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Lou

10-10-2005 08:04:22




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 Re: My new MF 135 in reply to Cob Nut, 10-10-2005 07:28:05  
MF-135s are kinda like girls, there are no bad girls, but some are a little better than others. Enjoy. Lou



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