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Massey Harris & Massey Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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135 Diesel Fuel Transfer Pump Change

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MarkNOhio

07-12-2005 18:13:20




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First a comment then a question. After several months of having a very rough idle, sometimes stalling at idle, and generally poor performance until I got above 1200-1300 RPM I decided to investigate. What I found was that at any RPM the glass sediment bowl on the low pressure fuel transfer pump was full of air bubbles. I hadn't remembered seeing this before so ordered a new fuel pump. Long story short, after changing it this afternoon that little Perkins diesel runs MUCH smoother. Now my question, it must be a British thing but the fuel lines aren't really flared like I'm used to. Instead, the male fittings have a very slight flare on the end with sort of a thick rubber washer between the flare and the nut that screws into the pump. They look almost like an old fashioned cone shaped water faucet washer, only smaller. Of course after some 35 years they were very hard and brittle. I managed to get all but one to seal, but the pressure side of the pump is very slightly leaking, maybe one drop every minute or so. I can live with that for now but do want to get them sealed up. Are the little washers something that I could get at NAPA or another real auto parts store or am I going to have to make the 50 mile round trip to the Massey Ferguson dealer? Thanks in advance for your help.

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MarkNOhio

07-19-2005 07:21:51




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 Re: 135 Diesel Fuel Transfer Pump Change in reply to MarkNOhio, 07-12-2005 18:13:20  
Thanks to all that replied. I ended up making my own and all lines are now leak free.



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Jack in NB

07-15-2005 05:38:30




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 Re: 135 Diesel Fuel Transfer Pump Change in reply to MarkNOhio, 07-12-2005 18:13:20  
I make them up from 3/16 and 1/4 black fuel line.

The stocks we see here have a bit larger Outside Diameter than the original MF washers, so I gring them down to size.

I cut off an inch or so and put it onto a 3/16 or 1/4" bolt (3" or so long, as a handle to hold while grinding) and grind the OD down so it fits snugly into the female sockets. Then slide it off the bolt an eighth of an inch or so (to match the ones removed - just don't cut them too short) and cut the protruding section off with a sharp knife. I get 4 to 6 out of a 1" piece.

The bolt supports the hose from collapsing during the slicing, giving a more uniform cut.

Some of the hoses have a reinforcing braid that appears during the grinding - I trim off any "fuzz" with scissors.

Minor irregularities cause no problem because the washer is squeezed when the fuel line nuts are tightened.

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sibby{AUS]

07-12-2005 22:49:07




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 Re: 135 Diesel Fuel Transfer Pump Change in reply to MarkNOhio, 07-12-2005 18:13:20  
Mark,we used to call them olives, be they 1/4, 5/16". they just look like a small piece of fuel hose cut off. i have cut my own in the past to get out of trouble. fuel pump repairers should stock them also, it doesnt have to be a genuine massey part. hope this helps. cheers from down under.



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DavidP, South Wales

07-13-2005 14:21:05




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 Re: 135 Diesel Fuel Transfer Pump Change in reply to sibby{AUS] , 07-12-2005 22:49:07  
Hi Mark and Sibby,
They can be a pain in the proverbial. I have never seen them used on anything other than MF.
Two things to try first;
1/ A tiny copper washer between the flaring and the rubber olive has worked in the past.
2/ The old favourite PTFE tape also works.

If you do need them, the numbers are;
Main pipes 1/4 OD 376 525 X1
Drain pipes 3/16 OD 376 524 X1
Cheers
DavidP

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wombat

07-17-2005 05:16:46




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 Re: 135 Diesel Fuel Transfer Pump Change in reply to DavidP, South Wales, 07-13-2005 14:21:05  
do not use teflon tape on any outlet pipe from the fuel filter. ie the main one that goes to the fuel pump. I am going through this process at the moment. A small piece of teflon will destroy a fuel pump costing alot of money to fix and is a common problem so my diesel repairers tell me.



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