Just found a MF 35 3 cyl diesel but it won't start

All you have to do to check his story about the battery is boost it from your vehicle. You should be able to reach the battery by opening the little hood on the top. It's right behind the fuel tank. Be very careful not to short a cable against the sheet metal around there. Remember to go black to black, red to red, and leave the engine of the boosting vehicle turned off.

Make SURE the tractor is in neutral and your backside (shorter term got cens*red) is on the seat before you try starting it. Whatever you do, don't mess around with the starter switch while standing beside the tractor, as it is fully capable of starting up instantly and running over you.

If the starter switch works properly, turn it to the LEFT part way and hold it for about ten seconds for pre-heat, then further LEFT to activate the starter. At anything above 20 degrees F. my Perkins doesn't need the preheater.

A tow is another alternative. Put the tractor in high range, 3rd gear, and let the clutch out while moving. If your driver has never towed a tractor before, plan out a route in advance, then insist that she not exceed 10 mph in the tow vehicle. Be sure you have a signal worked out to end the tow.

I prefer a heavy rope to a chain for towing, as the rope absorbs shocks and prevents damage. If a chain is all you have, hook it diagonally or steer well to the right of the tow vehicle to transfer the start-up impacts to the tires and suspension of the vehicles.

If it runs, $2400 is an attractive price, even in USD.

I've never bled a fuel line, and I wouldn't mess with the filters, as bleeding is essential, afterwards. If it comes to this you may want a mechanic or an experienced diesel hand along with you.

A diesel ignition switch just activates the selenoid for the starter. The fuel shutoff stops the engine: don't try to turn the key to shut off the engine, if you get it going. That will only activate the starter again, against a running engine.

A tow, therefore, should enable the diesel engine to start, regardless of key position.

Oh, it will be a 12v system. It might have two, six volt batteries hooked to give 12v, but that's unlikely.

Keep us posted

Will

mountainbikeman, eh?

Went that route myself. Then came golf carts, used over the same terrain as the mountain bikes. Now comes, slowly, a diesel tractor with something heavy hanging from a chain hooked to the loader. Today it was an 8" jointer. Sucker weighs 500 pounds. Why lift it?

Don't tear into that fuel line just yet unless it leaks when not running and leaves a puddle.

If you want a big, dirty job, tackle the air cleaner.

You'll hear lots of opinions about hydraulic fluid. First check the dip stick (rt. side of transmission, under seat) and see if any shows.

Next step? Order an OWNER'S manual, either from an eBay vendor or the dealer. I bought the MF Workshop Service Manual and have found it useless, my having no intention of rebuilding the engine. The 38 page owner's manual, however, is full of things you need to know, such as lubrication points.

Tractor dealers often sell bulk hydraulic oil if you take in your own containers. Ask advice at the same time, especially with regard to the tranny's capacity. I got mixed up between litres, Imperial gallons and U.S. gallons and ended up wasting a lot of oil.

The hydraulic oil place is complicated: there is one filler hole to the left of the gearshift, one dipstick in a different chamber, and small holes connecting them. There are two or three drains underneath. If you remove one of these, have something big to hold the oil. A regular drip tray can't come close to containing the deluge.

When adding tranny fluid, it is quite possible to fill and fill and have no immediate effect upon the dipstick, because of the small connecting holes between chambers.

So do everything slowly, by degrees. Get advice before taking anything on the fuel system apart, because diesels are different than gas systems.

Be sure to put in clean diesel with clean implements. Better to spill fuel all over the new paint than contaminate it with a dirty funnel.

Expect leaks and don't worry much about them.

Oh yeah, check the coolant. Mine leaked a bit whenever the engine was running. Investigation revealed a top hose I could easily put my fingers through. Replaced hose (after much fussing). No more Prestone leaks.