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Massey Harris & Massey Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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axel seal question for 35

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medic442

03-02-2005 21:28:02




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going to tear into my 35 and replace the axel seals.. is it really that hard to do??? any advise?

thanks




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phil(va)

03-04-2005 06:54:46




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 Re: axel seal question for 35 in reply to medic442, 03-02-2005 21:28:02  
Everyone has given you good advice. Easiest thing to do, in my opinion, and you can deduce this from the comments of the others, is to remove the axle yourself, and then replace the inner seal yourself. It will pop out of the axle housing fairly easily and you can drift another in without difficulty. But if you want to replace the outer seal, take the entire axle to a shop that will replace that seal and the bearings as well. The price won't be exorbitant. When you put the axle back in, after you tighten the brake backing plate, with both wheels in the air, if you turn one wheel, the other should turn the opposite way. If the other doesn't turn, you have it shimmed too much or something isn't tight. If it turns same way, not enough shims. So when you remove the brake backing plate, pay attention to the metal shims and where they are located and put them back same way as a place to start when you reassemble. The manual explains this as well. MF dealers have shims, but probably you won't need any if you take care of the ones that are in there. They are different thicknesses, so if you need one, be aware of that.

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TomTX

03-04-2005 04:41:44




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 Re: axel seal question for 35 in reply to medic442, 03-02-2005 21:28:02  
Would not attempt this without FIRST getting a real MF brand Repair Manual. Good luck.



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Sam H.

03-03-2005 19:30:51




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 Re: axel seal question for 35 in reply to medic442, 03-02-2005 21:28:02  
You have two seals on each side of the outer axle bearing. When you remove the nuts from the studs behind the brake drum the complete axle can be removed. The inner seal can now be replaced(lip to keep oil in the rear end). Since the bearing is packed in grease an outer seal is is in the housing still attached to the axle. That seal can only be changed by removing the collar(shrunk on)retaining the bearing to the shaft. Normally these collars are cut off and new ones installed when changing the outer seal. Be sure to check the play in the axle before you start this project. The tapered roller bearing is adjusted by removing shims in the flange when removing the axle. You want no play(but not binding)in your axle so if you can not eliminate the play and have removed all the shims you need to change the bearings also. If you have play the tractor weight will cause all the play to be at the bottom which will allow the seals to leak even if they are reasonably good. So check axle play and look for shims in the flange.

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Laurence

03-03-2005 11:17:23




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 Re: axel seal question for 35 in reply to medic442, 03-02-2005 21:28:02  
I took the axles to a MF mechanic. He used a big dedicated puller gadget and a big spanner. There was also some heating with gas involved. A lot of swearing, huffing and puffing and 3 hours later the job was done. This is not a very technical explanation but as far as I can deduce, one needs some specific equipment! There are steel collars that keep the bearings in place that are heated and then shrunk fit - I think that is what the swearing was about.

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John Horner

03-04-2005 22:08:51




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 Re: axel seal question for 35 in reply to Laurence, 03-03-2005 11:17:23  
I just did this job last week on my TO35. Based on the shop manual it looks to be much the same on the later MF35 as well.

#1 biggest concern for me was in removing the wheels safely. Mine are water filled and have the accessory weights ... so many hundreds of pounds there. I used a cherry picker style engine hoist and a length of chain along with a friend.

The parts listings on this website list a complete kit of both seals, the bearing and the new collar you will need for around $50 per side. A good deal.

Also know that of course you need to drain the gear lube out of the monster before you pull the axles. Otherwise you will have a big mess. Be prepared for the fact that 8 gallons of gear lube is used, so have big catch pails when you empty it. You could just empty the rear drain plug, but I emptied the whole system.

This is a good time to freshen the PTO output seal and O ring. I did so on mine and was surprised to find that the PTO output bearing was cracked and needed replacement.

Make sure to have a MF service manual on hand, it details the procedures very well.

Removal of the locking ring from the axle is done with a combination of drilling and cold chiseling. Not hard if you take your time and are comfortable with those tasks.

Removal of the bearing requires a hydraulic press. I used my 20 ton Harbor Freight job which was fine.

The most exciting part of the operation is reinstallation of the locking ring. This part is about 10 thou interference fit on the shaft. You have to get it glowing red hot with a torch then quickly slip it into place. Again I did this job with a partner and both of us are experienced so it was kind of fun and exciting, but if you are not comfortable with shop presses and torches you might not want to take on the job.

Enjoy,
John

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John Horner

03-04-2005 22:11:37




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 Re: axel seal question for 35 in reply to John Horner, 03-04-2005 22:08:51  
I also should have mentioned the possibility that your brake shoes might need replacement. Mine were fouled by the leaks which is what caused me to do the whole job in the first place.

John



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medic442

03-05-2005 12:24:57




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 Re: axel seal question for 35 in reply to John Horner, 03-04-2005 22:11:37  
thankd for all the info guys.. i think i am going to pull it and have a shop to the grunt work for me!!!! sounds like the best way to go!!!!!



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