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This is the Procedure I used to clean my transmission oil housing. You need to wash out the old fluid. Particularly if there is water in the old fluid. Any remaining fluid will contaminate the new fluid. If your current fluid is clean you do not need to be as anal rententive as I was. I had a water problem and now I do not. If you have time in the evenings start to drain the tractor now. She will drip for hours/days. You should be prepared to deal with the gallons of fluids you the will gush out of the tractor. Have containers ready to pour the old oil in to take to your auto parts store for recycling. Do your lift arms drop/leak down quickly? If so prior to draining the fluid pull the right side inspection plate. Lift an implement and look to see where the fluid is leaking out of the system as the lift lowers. When the fluid is out you can fix it. I would also recommend that you replace the PTO seal and O-ring seal, if needed, at this time and replace the inspection plate gaskets. The inspection plate gaskets are fairly easy to cut your self if you need to. Open the drains one at a time to handle the gush of fluid. Once you have gone through all of them open them all up again with a pan under each and let it drip at least over night. Make sure your lift control is in the down position to drain the piston. You should plan on "washing/Flushing" out the inside. Particularly if you have water in the oil... i.e. if brown/milky. To wash the inside use either diesel fuel. I put it in a garden sprayer and sprayed it down. I put the sprayer nozzle everywhere I can, up the PTO shaft opening, if you pulled it. Through the Filler hole, through the inspection ports, through each drain plug hole. I catch the diesel in clean oil pans let it settle then decant the "clean" fluid off the sludge and spray again, and again. Go have a beer and let it drain. I then wipe out the bottom with clean paper towels to get the crud out. (do not use cheap towels here). If your fluid had water in it, the "Milky" oil will continue to appear for a while, I just came back and wiped it out again. I had the time to let it drain for a week. Minimum, I would let drain, if you are tring to get rid of water contaminated oil, is over night. This is a good time to do other maintenance. Grease the fittings, Pull the air filter and clean it. Be sure to do this with good ventilation. The fumes are powerful. Button her back up with your new seals and fill. In your case with out a dip stick. Fill until oil just starts to come out of the lowest inspection port bolt hole. I would leave one of the inspection ports off and fill with the 1st 5 gallons. Then slow the pace. Put in a gallon and give it a good 5 min to equalize. Remember, you are filling the front sump and it must get bact to the rear sump, and the oil is thick. As you get near the end. i.e. the bottom inspection plate bolt hole. Replace, the inspection plate.
Toward the end, fill slowly... i.e. 1 quart per 5 to 10 minutes. To let it all even out in the sumps. The first time I changed the oil I did not do this and I over filled by a gallon and a half. And because I did not wash out the back that gallon and a half was now contaminated and useless. You will be glad you did this when it is done. BTW: replacement dip sticks are available for ~$8 to $12. Jeff
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