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Massey Harris & Massey Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Ignorant newbie with a few MF35 questions

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Michael Oakes

04-27-2004 04:37:16




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Hi all,

I have just bought a MF35 with a 4 cyl diesel engine. I am picking it up on Thursday and have a few questions to the seasoned MF guys out there.

I will have to drive the machine out of the farm a distance of about 10 kilometres to a truck waiting for the machine to be loaded. The engine oil is showing very low on the dipstick and I don't want to run it for that long. The dipstick doesn't fit very well and my experience of cars (which is quite substantial) tells me that dipsticks can be swaped by PO's. So is there a way (other than draining and refilling) of telling how much oil is needed? Failing that what is the engine oil sump capacity for these engines?

How much HP does the 4 cyl diesel put out?

What is a draw bar and how does it work (I told you I was ignorant)?

Are the brakes easy to adjust, rear drums I think?

I paid AU$3,500 for it and seems like a reasonable machine, a bit beaten up in the body and has an hydraulic front end loader which I think might be a Massey Ferguson unit, is this possible?

Any other advice on my new machine would be greatly appreciated.

Kind Regards
Michael Oakes
Australia

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Gary in TX

04-28-2004 14:08:14




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 Re: Ignorant newbie with a few MF35 questions in reply to Michael Oakes, 04-27-2004 04:37:16  
HI Michael,
You might try finding a small piece of heavy wire and sticking it down through the dipstick hole, clean it good first, that should get to the bottom of the pan or at least close. Should hold around 4 to 5 quarts of oil.
Easiest way to tell ya what a draw bar is is look on the back end of the tractor for a heavy flat piece of steel sticking out the back with a hole in the end of it to hook impliments too. Should be around 2 inches wide and about an inch thick. Most all are in a bracket that allows the drawbar to swing from side to side.
Hope this helps, I have a Massey 135 on gas

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BOB UK

04-28-2004 09:19:31




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 Re: Ignorant newbie with a few MF35 questions in reply to Michael Oakes, 04-27-2004 04:37:16  
Hi Mike

Sounds like you are buying a Ferguson FE 35 if it's a 4 cylinder
These were built in England and exported to Canada and Australia.
I have copied my operating manual so if you would like a copy just email me and I will send it as an attachment it contains all the info you require.

BOB UK
England



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sibby(Aus)

04-28-2004 00:19:32




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 Re: Re: Ignorant newbie with a few MF35 questions in reply to Jerry/MT, 04-27-2004 21:24:54  
gidday, first of all where are you,? why the urgency to load this tractor in such a hurry,? one thing at a time. now, have you anyone near you to compare dipsticks with,(same model) tractor. bring extra oil with you and add if need be, dont estimate, even if you have to buy a new dipstick before you rush back to pick the tractor up. have you driven it, had some one with a little mechanical knowledge check it over. brakes could be adjustment, how much pedal do you have? could have leaking axle seals which is a reasonable sort of repair, brake linings, drum condition etc. i have seen different brands of loaders fitted to them, bit hard to even guess without any specs, or a photo would help greatly. you cannot guess the amount of oil in the engine, so that is the most important thing to solve first. regards, sibby.

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Michael Oakes

05-01-2004 02:21:17




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 Re: Re: Re: Ignorant newbie with a few MF35 questi in reply to sibby(Aus), 04-28-2004 00:19:32  
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the all the information, I'm going to need as much help as I can get.

Sibby; I am near Canberra. Where are you? The hurry to load this machine...I bought it from a farmer at Bredbo and he wanted it off his block. The machine is now on my block. I managed to drive it out to a decent road that a tow truck could use, about 10 k's. I checked the oil on level ground and it was on the bottom line so took a calculated risk that it was sufficient. The dipstick just doesn't look right. I don't know anyone with a machine like this. I am reasonably mechanically inclined but my field of expertise is cars. I'll figure it out if I can get an operators and a service manual.

My guess on the brakes (without pulling the water filled wheels off) is the left one has fallen apart in the drum, there is a clunking sound when I hit the left pedal, retaining srpings?? The right one needs adjustment before I can guess, the pedal hits the "floor" before any shoe contact is made. The hydraulics (3PL, draft and FEL) work fine, the engine leaks oil, the transmission is weeping fluid and one of the hyraulic rams on the loader leaks a bit. I suspect the loader is home made. The beast is addicted to Aerostart, an issue I will have to rectify. I can't see a glow plug in the manifold (is this possible?), it's a 4 cyl diesel (I'll get the engine ID numbers tomorrow) with the manifolds and starter on the RHS and the injector pump and filters on the LHS. A standard diesel??

The ID number on the plate is SDM ??1165, the first 2 numbers are badly scratched. The rear guards and bonnet assy are red, the engine, trans and diff are grey. Bob from UK suggested an FE35 which I suspect is true. Should this model have a 2 stage clutch?

I figured $3,500 was a good buy for a running machime with FEL, what do you think?

Kind Regards
Michael Oakes

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sibby(Aus)

05-01-2004 17:58:11




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Ignorant newbie with a few MF35 qu in reply to Michael Oakes, 05-01-2004 02:21:17  
Michael, it would have had a kygas heater setup fitted from the factory on the inlet manifold, may have been removed for some reason afterwards. Aerostart is very severe and can damage top piston ring and piston ring grooves if used for extended periods, Bob from U.K. has identified it correctly as an f.e. 35. By the sounds of the brakes you would be better off pulling off the wheels and brake drums and checking them out, paying attention to any oil leak from axle leaks and rectifing as oil is the major damaging factor to the brake linings, if need be buy new linings and replace i think they are still available and fit them to the shoes with Araldite or rivets , you may have to heat up shoes by applying heat to inside of brake shoes outward with oxy torch, not from outside onto lining. you can check inside of brake drums and probably have them machined, then sit brake shoes into drum and see if they rock back and forth on ends, if so get the shoes radius ground so the linings contact entire surface while in drum.workshop manuals are the best iinvestment you can make, is there a Massey dealer near you.? where is the engine leaking oil, and where are the transmission leaks.? the loader hyd ram leak should be only a seal that you should be able to match up from bearing service or similar supplier, what is the condition of the ram rod sealing chrome surface, does it have any rust or pitting.? what size rear tyres do you have e.g. 12.4.28.,13.6.28,14.9.28. or larger.? i have no problem wheeling them out and back on while still full of water, have lot of practice LOL. are you going to use the loader often, my only concern is you will have to double up on steak and eggs and cornflakes in the morning for the steering. I live up in Ingham N.Qld, between Townsville and Cairns. Michael keep posted and let us know how you progress with your machine and i will try to help if i can. regards and good luck, sibby.

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Michael Oakes

05-01-2004 22:23:22




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ignorant newbie with a few MF3 in reply to sibby(Aus), 05-01-2004 17:58:11  
Hi Sibby,

Thanks for the brakes info. I reckon I'll have to pull the wheels off, I have just come back from my block and adjusted the brakes and still nothing, or very little. I also did a wheel alignment, cleaned out the air filter (which had a piece of foam stuffed in it), lubed up the pins and gave it an Italian tune up. Maybe the brake shoes have oil on them. The loader ram has a little rust on the surface which may have caused the leak. I didn't check the wheel size, I suspect they are quite narrow. I tried out the FEL this morning and with a full load of gravel it was still steerable but you need to be moving a bit.

How does a kygas heater setup work?

Kind Regards
Michael Oakes

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sibby(Aus)

05-02-2004 07:53:26




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ignorant newbie with a few in reply to Michael Oakes, 05-01-2004 22:23:22  
Michael, Kygas system was fitted to early models, had a reservior and a plunger pump to manually squirt fuel over a heated element screwed into intake manifold to assist cold starting. later heat start was a heater element which worked mainly the same way, but fuel was released onto heat element when you turned your ignition key for a few seconds in the anti clockwise position and then clockwise to start, now if your fuel injectors, injector pump or engine compression are not up to scratch you will experience white smoke and burning eyes from exhaust while trying to start it. You have to have one on your intake manifold, or someone must have removed it and screwed in a plug to blank it. regards and keep me posted on your progress.

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Michael Oakes

05-03-2004 01:58:35




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ignorant newbie with a in reply to sibby(Aus), 05-02-2004 07:53:26  
Thanks Sibby,

There is a little white smoke on start up, something is not quite right. I also get white smoke when the engine is deccelerating or coasting and a bit of black smoke at WOT. It is also a little rough at idle. Still plenty of grunt though. In a petrol engine I would say that's most likely valve stem seals and running rich (ignition issue). My experience with diesel engines is minimal. There is also a sound at lower revs which sounds like preignition but I can't be sure. Can these injector pumps be timed wrong?

Kind Regards
Michael Oakes

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sibby(Aus)

05-03-2004 04:17:00




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ignorant newbie wi in reply to Michael Oakes, 05-03-2004 01:58:35  
Michael, they are a very cranky to start engine, not like a Perkins. The timing could be out quite easily because the timing chain stretches and wears easily, also have to check the crankshaft drive gear and camshaft driven gear for wear, not sure if they are still available new anymore. You need to get a workshop manual as soon as possible, the pump timing is checked by having no. 1. piston on t.d.c. on compression stroke(valves rocking on no 1.,from memory and by removing oval plate off side of injection pump lining up a letter(c,d, not sure ) on this model from memory with the edge of a retaining circlip inside pump. i very much doubt if it will start down your way without heater or coldstart because they are cranky to start up here in the tropics without any cold start aid.Does the preignition sound go out after it warms up?.Regards sibby, P.S., look out for the yowies an wombats mate!!!

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Michael Oakes

05-03-2004 22:39:36




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ignorant newbi in reply to sibby(Aus), 05-03-2004 04:17:00  
Hi Sibby,

The preignition sound continues when it's warm but only at low revs.

What sort of manual would you suggest?

Michael Oakes



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Bob (also in Aus)

05-03-2004 23:29:11




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ignorant n in reply to Michael Oakes, 05-03-2004 22:39:36  
Michael

The best workshop manual is the genuine MF manual. I got mine through 'Friends of Ferguson' in the UK as it is difficult to get through Australian MF dealers

The 4 cylinder 35 diesel has the reputation of being hard to start. Rebuilding cures the problem. Parts are readily available from Bareco, and many of the parts sold by MF dealers are actually Bareco.

I have 35 with 3 cylinder Perkins. We do a lot of work with it. It is economical and totally reliable.

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Rick Chisholm

05-25-2004 01:58:56




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ignora in reply to Bob (also in Aus), 05-03-2004 23:29:11  
Michael
I was interested in your project since I did the same thing last year withan MHF model FE35 ( after ser no 75600 odd they were built by MF rather than Massey Harris Ferguson). The biggest problem you will have is timing the injector pump when rebuilding the motor. The trick is to follow the workshop manual carefully and make sure that all the play in the timing gears is taken up by turning the motor backwards( anti clockwise) when setting the timing marks inside the pump. Not easy and best done with a good mechanic. The dealers at Crookwell know their stuff. Talk to Andrew when contemplating a rebuild. Also beware of cheap parts. i bought my first kit from that same distributor starting with B and it was a complete dud with totally excessive piston to bore clearance ( 7 thou when 3-4 is tops). .Sparex kits have also given me grief, especially in sleeves and pistons.A lot of parts comes from India off worn out lathes etc. Again talk to Andrew Bull at Nicholson Farm Machinery on 48321073 when ordering parts and ask for alternatives to the company with a four letter name starting with B. Massey now have a cheaper line of parts in the UK and may be importing them.There is another group in Melbourne with high quality parts from the UK
Dont rush into rebuilding the pump either. Do the injectors first If you have to, go to Branko at Branko diesel in Mitchell. Much much cheaper and not arrogant like the Fyshwyck alternative. Mine is going great now and is stored at Hall along with all the others ( two 35xs with loaders, a Fiat 411R, a 65MK11 and a really nice TEA 20 ( 1956 model). Give me a call if you like on 62581227. Cheers Rick Chisholm

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