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Rear axle oil seals FE 35

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DouroBob

04-28-2003 04:38:15




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I bought a 1962 "new-to-me" MF FE 35 last winter and have finally gotten around to changing all the fluids. When I bought the tractor I noticed the hydraulic tansmission fluid level was low but the 3PH worked well - no jerking and it held a snowblower up for 20 - 30 minutes before starting to leak down. There was no evidence of oil leaking at either end of the axle. Now that I have drained and replaced the hydraulic fluid (to the full mark) I see oil at the end of the axle, around the brake drum, on the wheel rim and down the outside of the tire on the left hand side.
I assume I can look forward to pulling the axle and replacing the oil seal.
A few questions:
1 - Is there anything else I should check before I pull the axle?
2 - If I do replace the seal on one side is there a "while-I'm-at-it-I-might-as-well ...." moment here? Should I do both sides? or ???
3 - Any other advice based on experience that could make this job as smooth as possible? I do have the shop manual but so far have not found much in it that is helpful.

Thanks for any assistance.

Bob

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David (Scotland)

04-29-2003 01:47:43




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 Re: Rear axle oil seals FE 35 in reply to DouroBob, 04-28-2003 04:38:15  
To cure the oil leak you only need to do the inner seals which are cheap and easy to change. All you do is remove the half shaft, prise the old seal out of the axle end, replace it (standard type of seal that is available at most specialist bearing suppliers) and put everything back together again. There isn't any need to adjust axle endfloat provided it all goes back as it came apart with shims and gasket (between bearing carrier and axle) as you found them. These seals stop the oil getting from the axles. You just tap the new seals in carefully with something that won't damage them. I would probably use a piece of wood although that may not be the ideal way to do it.

Note that some modern tractors have a grease point at the hub bearing to allow you to put grease into it occassionally. MF35 and MF135 don't have this and I believe there is a service recommendation that rear hub bearings should be repacked with grease periodically. In my experience it just doesn't get done and tractors seem no worse for it but I guess regreasing them after 50 years would be a good thing to do when you have the half shafts out.


Outer ones are standard seals too. The outer seal is only there to keep grease in the hub bearings and dirt out. It isn't designed to keep oil in the axles housing and you coudl get away with leaving it alone. It can be a real hassle to change as you have to remove the hub bearing carrier. This involves drilling and spliting the retaining collar and pulling the bearing off. This can be really tight. Massey mechanic tells me he has had 15 tons force on their press to get some of them off. On the other hand, some do come off easily - mine didn't - I got dealer to pull and replace them. Apparently there is a type of seal that you can fit without taking it apart and I have seen postings praising this but haven't used one myself. When you have refitted the hub bearings you heat a new collar and drop it onto the shaft and it shrinks to fit. You do have to check end float when bearing carrier has been removed and shim axle to suit. Proper way is to use a dial gauge but many people would just pull the half shaft out and in to check they were getting a just perciptible movement.

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James, UK

04-28-2003 08:31:23




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 Re: Rear axle oil seals FE 35 in reply to DouroBob, 04-28-2003 04:38:15  
I was going to do exactly that job on my TED 20, but after a bit of road use the axles stopped leaking!! Lucky or what?

What I will pass on is the information that there is a kit available which slides up the half shaft towards the hub - with lots of good thick grease between the hub and this kit - which means that the axles stop leaking onto your brakes. (So you will need to re-do those as well)

It is a lot less hassle than removing half shafts, removing brass collar, sweating new brass collar on, refitting half shafts, etc.

I know you can get it from The Old 20 Parts Co. here in the UK, their email address is [email protected] There are probably other suppliers too.

All usual disclaimers apply, hope the info helps make a rotten job easier.

As the kit (and the brake shoes) come in axle sets, I'd do both sides at the time. It is always safer to do both brakes together, anyway - so "while you're there . . . ."

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