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Massey 65 ROPS

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Straw Hat

04-26-2003 17:08:57




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Hello friends, I'm considering a MF 65 with a loader, but the boss of the family is really wanting me to get a ROPS for it. Any Ideas???? I'm sure I could weld something together myself out back, but I know she (and well, maybe me too) would feel better with something professionally done for this life saving device....ANY and All info/ideas appreicated
Thank you so much
SH




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Tractorsafe

05-12-2003 00:27:40




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 Re: Massey 65 ROPS in reply to Straw Hat, 04-26-2003 17:08:57  
Glad to hear of your interest in making an old tractor safer. I've built my own ROPS for old farm tractors and other heavy equipment, but generally do not recommend it to others as a "do-it-yourself" project. However, it can be done. I adapted my ROPS from accepted designs, then used even heavier material and oversized hardware. I built a rollover cage with an articulating seat plus seat belts, fitted to a 40-year-old Farmall that was never intended to have anything bolted to its rear axle other than fenders or perhaps a loader mount.

For detailed ROPS info, check out the website for the Agriculture school at Colorado State University. They did an extensive study and testing of ROPS designs for older tractors. The website has quicktime videos of rollover tests on a Ford 8N tractor, etc. Also check out ROPS standards published by the Society of Automotive Engineers and the American Society of Agricultural Engineers. These sources will show you that a ROPS must withstand tremendous forces from various load vectors to be effective. These standards are based on sound engineering judgement and decades of experience.

The essential function of a Roll Over Protection System is to prevent ejection and to provide sufficient survival space in a foreseeable rollover event. It can also be part of a Falling Object Protection System if combined with an appropriate protective roof panel and front cage. What is often misunderstood is that it is equally critical that you have (and always use) a properly designed seat and snug seat belt to complement the ROPS roll bar. Otherwise you will not get the benefit of remaining within the survival space provided by the roll bar.

Few older tractors had seats that would accommodate belt anchorages. It is extremely rare even today to have a vehicle seat that is strong enough to take the crash loads from a belt anchored only to the seat itself. The SAE Handbook contains standards for belt anchorages, which as a minimum require 7/16" high-grade bolts, with belt anchorages only allowed within specified angles relative to the vehicle occupant, etc. If you do your research, proper anchorages can usually be developed by creating a heavy steel "underlay" frame that fits between the seat and the existing axle/transmission/floorpan equivalent of the tractor. This "underlay" frame can use the existing bolts usually found at multiple locations near the normal seat mount of most tractors. If needed, additional mounting holes can be drilled and tapped if appropriate precautions are taken.

As just one example, Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 210 requires a 5000 pound static load for a lap belt without failure. See the Code of Federal Regulations Title 49, Part 571, subpart 210. (I've done scientific crash and rollover testing, evaluating safety systems for passenger vehicles, plus design and fabrication of rollcage, seat, and restraint systems for race vehicles, so I know a bit about this stuff.)

Look at some late-model pieces of heavy equipment with a factory roll cage and seat/belt setup. This should give you some design ideas. Most use articulated seats for shock absorbtion, with either air-ride and/or mechanical shock absorbers. Note that tractors normally do not have air pumps, etc., so you are generally limited to mechanical seats. This setup normally requires seat belts that have at least a lap belt anchored to the seat, plus tether belts that are anchored to the floor. The tether belts must be adjusted to be taut when the seat is approaching its upper travel limit. If the tether belts are loose, the seat can tear loose from the floor and the system may play 'crack the whip' with your head during a rollover.

Absolute minimum head clearance should be 42" from the undeformed seat cushion to the lowest point of possible head contact with the roll bar or roof, with the seat in its highest position. Otherwise you stand a good chance of ramming your head into the roll bar or other structure on rough terrain, let alone during a rollover. The seat must also be rated to carry your weight in the heaviest foreseeable clothing and equipment you will likely wear. Otherwise the seat can bottom out.

Similar setups of seats and belts can be found on Class 8 heavy trucks, but they typically have no effective rollover protection. These trucks can be a good source of used parts. Use nothing that shows signs of loading from a crash or rollover, however. Beware of used seat belts, especially if they are sun bleached, cut, frayed, or show "waffling" of the fabric or pulled stitching. Any of the above can make them dangerously weak.

It is possible to design and build roll bars and cages for older tractors, but it is not simple, nor should the fabrication be done by amateurs. This is no place for poor, non-penetrating welds or sloppy fit-up of bolts. A 4-point roll cage is far better than a simple roll bar, especially for use with a loader. Heavy-gage steel tubing with multiple gussets, heavy mounting plates, high-grade hardware, and quality welding is needed. Tractors typically weigh many times more than passenger cars, so that light gauge roll bar tubing used by your local off-road shop is not likely to be adequate. Check with a local race car fabricating shop that makes racing-approved roll cages, and see if they can or will build something that will handle the far greater weight of a tractor. Compare their prices with an off-the-self kit, if one is available. It may also be possible to adapt a ROPS roll cage from another piece of equpment, however make sure it was never in a previous rollover or crash, and is free of corrosion.

Don't forget to replace the fuel cap with one that will not leak in a rollover. Protecting the gas tank is another very good reason for building a full cage.

After going to all the foregoing trouble, I hope you will find it easier and cheaper and safer in the long run to buy an ASAE-approved retrofit kit.

There are probably lots of folks on this website that may think adding a ROPS roll bar and seat belt to an old, "classic" tractor is a stupid waste of time or somehow hurts the value of the tractor. I suppose if all one had to do was trailer the tractor to parades, then drive it at walking speed on smooth pavement, the rollover risk to an unprotected driver would be reasonable. Unfortunately, some of these old tractor designs have killed and maimed a lot of folks. Tractors are far and away the most dangerous equipment on farms and ranches, with rollovers the single most serious hazard resulting in fatality. The typical tractor rollover reaches "upside down" in less than one second. Which means that just about the time you realize you are rolling over, you are getting seriously hurt or killed. Not nearly enough time to jump clear or whatever other fairy tales people like to tell. Check out the website for the Agricultural safety institute at the Marshfield Clinic in Wisconsin if you want to see the rest of the story. If that does not convince you, nothing will.

There was supposed to be a program for supplying ROPS for older tractors at factory production cost, but I have never been able to find anything about it. Good luck, hope this helps.

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Jack in NB

04-27-2003 04:16:21




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 Re: Massey 65 ROPS in reply to Straw Hat, 04-26-2003 17:08:57  
Hi -

Good thinking on two counts: both adding a roll bar, and not trying to make it yourself.

The 165 roll bars will fit, as well as some of the later ones. Mounting hole spacing is the criterion.

It won't be legal from a regulatory point, because the 65 model isn't listed on the name plate, but it will save your neck.....

if you have a seat belt too!

As for your next question - where to find one - I'm looking too. Found a good used one at a dealer's a few years back, but haven't found a second one yet.

BareCo may have them. They've just opened a warehouse in CA.

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