MF 35 Front Loader Questions

I just bought a front loader for our MF 35. I have a couple of questions. Any answer to any of they is deeply appriciated.
1. Do I need a contra-weight behind the tractor, such as an barral filled with cement to ensure that the front axis don't breake?
2. The hydraulics is only in place for the rear loader. How do I go about making it work for both the front and rear loaders?
3. There are two pistons on the loader. Do they get fed from the same source or would I need to make to parallel hoses from somewhere on the tractor?
4. The exhaust pipe points into the air (vertical). Does that have to be changed to a horizontal one in order to mount the loader?

Thanks in advance,
Rasmus

I use a barrel filled with cement at the rear when I lift heavy objects with the front loader on my MF 35. The main reason is that the steering is nearly impossible to operate without it. So - a counterweight is recommended.

Greetings
Hakan from Sweden

I appriciate the advise.

I have two questions for you. a) How did you make the barrel?
b) How do you go about lifting it? If the rear loader and the front loader works independently then I would think it would be a problem to get the barrel lifted?

I live in Denmark (Copenhagen).

Cheers,
Rasmus

The counterweight was really simple to make. I used an old oil barrel, cut away the top third to get what I believed was a suitable weight. At a suitable height (somewhat higher than the middle in my case) I placed a horizontal round iron bar through the empty barrel. The bar should fit in the rear hydraulic arms, for lifting the whole thing. Then the lot was filled with stones and concrete. I'll send some images...

Lifting is done using the tractor's hydraulics. The secret is to find a place to rest the weight when the hydraulic pressure is used for the front loader. I use the trailer connection for this and the barrel is held in place by the hydraulic arms. Watch your toes when unloading it though...

In answer to your questions:

1. The counterweight will improve traction and stability, but won't reduce the load on the front axle much. They are a bit weaker than later models, so don't overload the bucket. A smaller bucket - 6 to 8 cu. ft. - is lots.

2. You'll need a switch valve to replace the 4"x6" cover on top of the transmission just ahead of the seat, a bit to the right. About $100. This feeds the remote valve which you probably got with the loader. This valve switches power from the rear to the front. You can't operate both at the same time. There is a valve bank which fits on the transmission, but it's a lot more expensive than the switch valve feeding a remote.

3. They are fed in parallel from one hose leaving the outlet port on your control valve. Tee, and lines to each cylinder.

4. Our mufflers are vertical. The loader frame may allow you to leave it vertical; you might have to re-plumb it further out or go down under.

Hope this helps - drop me a note if you have more questions. Address in the website below.

Link

Jack Wetmore in NB Can.

No more questions for now - just a note to say thank you for getting us started on the project.

Cheers,
Rasmus