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Axle seals

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Whiskers

01-29-2002 08:47:57




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Have to replace the rear axle seals in my '58 M-F 50. They are allowing oil to leak onto the brakes, so must replace them before repairing the brakes. Are there any good tips or nightmares that I need to know before I start this? Thanks.




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Bob B

01-29-2002 10:32:26




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 Re: axle seals in reply to Whiskers, 01-29-2002 08:47:57  
I am doing exactly the same thing right now to exactly the same tractor. Here's what I've learned so far: I planned to replace just one side but am doing both half-axles - the bearing was not in good shape on the one side and I decided to check the other and found the same problem with the other bearing. To go through the whole process of getting your preload right and then having to do it again next year isn't very appealing. I also replaced both the inner and outer seal since I was already at it and for the same reason of not having to do it again.

What I did was jack up the whole rear and place both sides on hardwood blocks (so that I can set the preload later without the wheels on and feel safe at it). I then pulled the axles and took them to a friend who does it all the time and has the pullers. I tried renting them and it got complicated. So I farmed that part out and am glad I did. Big Dean advised me not to try to re-use old brakes if they've been soaked in leaking oil. He says the oil will just re-surface later on and cause you misery again. Replace them now. Although I don't generally use foreign parts I did on the brakes. They were so much cheaper than sending my old ones out to get re-lined and a good advisor said they are fine for tractors so my new brake shoes come from Taiwan. They look fine.

So I ended up changing all four seals and two bearings. I am about to put it all back together. To set the pre-load (which probably caused the seal to go in the first place) I am told to put in the shims, without the outer seals installed and without any grease worked into the bearing yet with a grease needle, then bolt down only two bolts on each side and keep adjusting the shims 'til it is right. It can take 4 or 5 whacks at it. When the wheels just turn opposite ways is when your shims are right. (I took more shims than I needed from the shop - they said bring back the ones you don't use.) Once it is adjusted right, then you put in the outer seal and put the grease to the bearing and bolt everything back up tight. So that's my two cents. If anyone knows more tips or sees some better way of doing it, I would be glad to hear them.

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BlueLite

01-29-2002 10:02:14




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 Re: axle seals in reply to Whiskers, 01-29-2002 08:47:57  
WEll, I have a MH30 and some things may be
different. The MH brake housing is recessed into the casting of the frame. So the bottom of the housing is just 3/8in cast iron. I bought the tractor with bad seals and changed them myself. The oil would flow into the bottom of the housing like a natural catch basin.
The brake drum was just above that and that was in a continuous bath. If your situation is the same drill a small hole in the casting to let out the oil if it leaks again. About the seals, the axle may have a groove or two you will have to bridge to slide them over. I took a piece of thin plastic and wrapped it around the shaft over the grooves. Grease the plastic and slide the seals over that. Try to get the spring loaded seals, if not try to get the double lip (contact surface) rubber seals as they are usually the same price as the single.

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