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:Thanks Bill for the info. I do not plan to teardown the steering gearbox at this time but I will file this for when I do. OhioFols : Hi, there you are again. : There are 2 adjustments you have to make. One is at the top, just below the stering wheel, and the second is inernal and you need to open the steering box, clean it fully, make the adjusments and then reassemble it. : The adjustment at the top is just a lock of sheetmetal to open, and then tighten the adjusting nut. This is a ball bearing, that prevent the steering axle where the steering wheel sits to move upward and downward before the steering arms move. So, when you tighten this make sure not to overtighten, allow a tiny little clearance for lubrication to be present. : Then, the internal adjustment is a bit more tricky. The steering axle where the steering wheel sits, has treads in the lower end. Those treads is grinded to axcept balls, like from a ball bearing. The nut is also grinded to axcept the same balls, and there is a pipe in 2 pieces, where the balls that comes out can roll through and come in in the other end of the nut again. This makes the balls recirculate as you turn the steering wheel. This is the trickt part to assemble. But if you use a ball bearing grease and with your finger apply it around inthe nut, after putting the pipe back you can place every ball in the nut, including the pipe. There is 28 balls.
: Then tread the steering axle into the nut, be carefull so no balls find their own way out in the free world..... They tend to, and maybe you need to use your fingers to keep them in place while you tread the axle in place. Once in place no one will come out. : Now, back the adjusment here. The above mentioned nut has 2 taps, one at each side, that goes into one of the sector axles. When you look at this, you will see there is a plate with a tap on each side. Under these plates there is shims, and you need to remove some. You can find new shims, if you need thinner ones. But I made my own, by using brass shims, and cutting it with a kitchen scissor. The shims I removed was about 0.3 mm, and I needed to use 2 brass shims 0.1 mm each. : Then, you need to check the radial play in the 4 bushings. If to much play you have to replace them. : Clean all parts well, and use a thick gear oil. In the upper ball bearing you use grease. : If there is excessive wear in the grinded grooves in the nut and steering axle you will feel clearance here. So, if you adjust correctly at both places, and there is still to much play, you need either bigger balls, or a new nut and axle. I have no idea if it is possible to find bigger balls. Also, there can be to much clearance between the left and right axle sector. If the tooths are to much worn there is nothing to do, except replace them. Of course coating them with chrome would probably give a sufficient result. But I guess it will cost to much. : There is working shop manuals for the UK built MF 35, you can either find them at Classic Tractor Books in England, or order from a club if you are a memeber. : Steering boxes and power steering are one of the things that is different between UK and US built MF. Front axle too. : This is what I can say about this. : Hope it helps, : Bill
: : : I posted a message a few days ago concerning the design of the steering gearbox on my MF 35 (Perkins diesel). This tractor was made in England and the gearbox does not have the adjusting screws for removing backlash from the steering. The repair manual that I have shows adjusting screws for each gear segment. Is there an adjustment to remove the backlash (manual steering).
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