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MF135 Transmission Questions

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Mike Jeffcoat

11-27-1999 21:17:13




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A couple weeks ago my mid/late 60's 135 wouldn't come out of reverse. I know about the shifter problems from reading this forum- this was different. It sort of made a snapping noise as it released as I manually rocked the tractor while pulling on the shifter. After that for the next 5-10 minutes it made a whining noise while backing under no load (otherwise okay.) Then it started jumping out of reverse and within 5 minutes would only grind while the shifter was fulling in reverse.
Yesterday I found the problem as I removed the steering column/shifter plate assembly. A gear which is at the bottom of the transmission on the left side is the culprit. It actually looks like maybe a shaft moved backward and let the gear get cocked sideways and chewed (needle bearings galore as I drained the oil.) My questions are two-
(1) Will I have to split the tractor at the transmission/rear end connection?
(2) What else do I need to replace while I'm in there? (I see a hydraulic hose of some sort coming from the front.)

I've had this gas MF for 5 years and never had a minute's trouble, not even the common shifter problems. Being raised on a Ford 8N you can imagine the love affair I'm having with this powerhouse.

I don't expect a blow-by-blow account on what to do (although that would be nice) I just need a little fatherly advise.

Thanks, I look forward to your responses.
Mike

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Vic S.

12-01-1999 10:26:41




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 Re: MF135 Transmission Questions in reply to Mike Jeffcoat, 11-27-1999 21:17:13  
Mike, As with any amount of major disassembly you need to determine where is the point to draw the line on how much to do. It could be either a financial decision or a labor intense decision. Many would say if you have it apart to replace anything that needs to be changed or anything that shows any ware on it. Heres the line. Things can ware and still have life in them. They start with no ware and in the ideal situation lubricants prevent any waring. Well....I would suggest to change the main input shaft seals ( 2 if you have double clutch indicated my the third letter in you serial number being "M" for "multiclutch". Otherwise there is only 1 seal. I would consider close check of the clutch disks and definitely check for wear on the shifting rods. If you have a leak on the pto shaft output...now is the time to change. I wonder if you have run this tractor for 5 years and never changed the transmission oil yourself. If this is the case then it was a mistake you will not do again. I have found the 90w mineral gear oil (nonfoaming) for $17.00 for 5 gallons. At this price one can afford to change the oil without a loan. :) Good luck on your findings inside. TIP ..... .. Before you split I would put into the transmission about 3 gallons of diesel fuel and run the pto in "live mode" to flush out the old oil and any metal deposits. Then drain the diesel out and start the dissasembly. Dont drive the tractor with the diesel in it due to the load on the gears. The diesel fuel has enough lubricating oil in it to lubricate and flush but not under heavy load of driving. (This has been told to me from my friend who is the mechanic at the local Massie Ferguson dealer.)

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Mike Jeffcoat

12-05-1999 19:52:34




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 Re: Re: MF135 Transmission Questions in reply to Vic S., 12-01-1999 10:26:41  
Mr. Vic,
I appreciate your time and insight.
I got the MF135 shop manual yesterday that I ordered last week. Even though I've never been into a tractor (or other) transmission before, I was absolutely amazed at how simple it was. The transmission is completely removed from the tractor and torn down. What I found was that the "keeper" tab that prevents the reverse cluster gear shaft in place was in fact not in place. It was rotated out of position but the bolt holding it was very tight. I have to wonder if it had been like that for a long time but finally "slid" backward while I was scooping dirt with the scoop turned backward. Anyway, it'll be in place with the bolt secured when I finish.
The oil was in really good shape except for the needle bearings and pieces of needle bearings that came pouring out of the front drain hole when I opened it up. I will change it more often now (like you said.) As for your other suggestion about rinsing the case with diesel fuel, I certainly wish I'd thought of that before now. I did have concerns but didn't know what to do with them. At this point, I plan to do a similar rinse of the case itself but minus the part about it rinsing through the system. I've read some about the pump not picking up the oil after a change. If that happens do you have any idea how I can help it other than priming through the auxilliary hydraulic port since I don't have them?
Thanks for your time and reply,
Mike Jeffcoat

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Gerald J.

11-28-1999 07:31:50




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 Re: MF135 Transmission Questions in reply to Mike Jeffcoat, 11-27-1999 21:17:13  
The I&T and MF shop manuals should give the gory details of that repair. I suspect you will have to split the tractor to get the main shaft out so you can get room to move that reverse shaft out.

The hydraulic hose probably goes to the multipower valve that's in the bell housing. Put new seals in that valve while you have the tractor split.

Gerald J.



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Mike Jeffcoat

11-28-1999 11:36:29




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 Re: Re: MF135 Transmission Questions in reply to Gerald J., 11-28-1999 07:31:50  
Gerald,
I went to my MF dealer yesterday to order the service manual (only needed my owner's manual until now.) Thanks for taking time to answer.

Vic, Gil, Jim, Elmer (or others):
Any additional advice on what needs replacing? I enjoy reading the help all you guys offer.
Mike



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