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TO-30 Front axle pivot pin question

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OldKyJim

10-31-1998 18:19:18




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My question is for those of you who've been using (and maintaining)a TE/TO-20/30 for some time...

The front axle (main member) on my TO-30 seems to have some "play" in it. When you turn the steering wheel, you can see the axle shift just a bit, depending on which way the steering is pulling/pushing the linkage. It isn't a lot of play, but I noticed there the front axle seems to be mostly secured by a single axle pivot pin.

How do you know if the pivot pin needs to be replaced? Is this play I'm seeing excessive? Or normal?

My I&T shows a bushing along with the pivot pin; can the bushing be replaced by itself? I see CT has the entire pivot pin for $39.99; does this include the bushing as well?

I'm not real concerned about the bit of play I'm seeing, but I wouldn't mind fixing it if its a problem before next spring.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Jim

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Jack in NB

11-01-1998 04:45:57




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 Re: TO-30 Front axle pivot pin question in reply to OldKyJim, 10-31-1998 18:19:18  
Hi Jim -

We replace them when the pin shows appreciable wear - 1/16" or more. Bushings usually are worn more. They can be replaced separately. When we do, I use 2 bushings - one on each side of the axle, and drill the axle for a 90 deg. grease fitting, so the grease gets into the center of the cavity between the 2 bushings.

Stops the squeak, and I think lengthens the life. Probably that's academic, because they are 40 years old now, and if greasing doubles the life of the replacements, we (our successors) will probably be out of fuel to run the tractors!!!!

The ball joints on the rear of the radius rods can be tightened by filing a bit off the mating surface on the retaining caps. I pack them with grease before reinstallation.

BTW, the pivot pins are about $31 US and the bushings about $6 US each here in Canada.

Jack

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Dennis

11-02-1998 09:41:20




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 Re: Re: TO-30 Front axle pivot pin question in reply to Jack in NB, 11-01-1998 04:45:57  
: Hi Jim -

: We replace them when the pin shows appreciable wear - 1/16" or more. Bushings usually are worn more. They can be replaced separately. When we do, I use 2 bushings - one on each side of the axle, and drill the axle for a 90 deg. grease fitting, so the grease gets into the center of the cavity between the 2 bushings.

: Stops the squeak, and I think lengthens the life. Probably that's academic, because they are 40 years old now, and if greasing doubles the life of the replacements, we (our successors) will probably be out of fuel to run the tractors!!!!

: The ball joints on the rear of the radius rods can be tightened by filing a bit off the mating surface on the retaining caps. I pack them with grease before reinstallation.

: BTW, the pivot pins are about $31 US and the bushings about $6 US each here in Canada.

: Jack

Seems weird to me but the Ferguson Shop manual says DO NOT grease the pivot pin because the grease will pick up dirt and shorten the life. It does say that graphite is OK. Sounds like they expected it to wear out.

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Gerald

10-31-1998 19:30:25




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 Re: TO-30 Front axle pivot pin question in reply to OldKyJim, 10-31-1998 18:19:18  
: My question is for those of you who've been using (and maintaining)a TE/TO-20/30 for some time...

: The front axle (main member) on my TO-30 seems to have some "play" in it. When you turn the steering wheel, you can see the axle shift just a bit, depending on which way the steering is pulling/pushing the linkage. It isn't a lot of play, but I noticed there the front axle seems to be mostly secured by a single axle pivot pin.

: How do you know if the pivot pin needs to be replaced? Is this play I'm seeing excessive? Or normal?

: My I&T shows a bushing along with the pivot pin; can the bushing be replaced by itself? I see CT has the entire pivot pin for $39.99; does this include the bushing as well?

: I'm not real concerned about the bit of play I'm seeing, but I wouldn't mind fixing it if its a problem before next spring.

: Thanks in advance for any advice!

: Jim

Probably more effective than attacking the pivot pin is to replace the bolts that connect the radius rods to the axles and maybe stick some hard leather around the balls on the backs of the radius rods. The radius rods have the long lever on front axle position, while the pivot pin has the very short lever. To keep the axle from moving visibly the pivot pin would need nearly zero clearance. On my MF-135 I found those bolts through the fork of the radius rods to be worn significantly.

Gerald

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