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Welding Cast Plough Share

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Mark

10-26-2001 08:24:34




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I broke the plough share in my old ferguson deep digger plough, it is the type with the wing and point combined and I cant get hold of a new one anywhere. Consequently i need to weld it. It is cast, does anyone have any advice on how to weld it? i can either Mig weld it with standard wire or stick weld it, or can anyone tell me where i can get a new one? Thanks for your help.




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Bill from up north

11-04-2001 23:51:42




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 Re: Welding Cast Plough Share in reply to Mark, 10-26-2001 08:24:34  
My 2cents about welding cast- They are both right in their methods-my opinion. I've welded hundreds of pieces of cast and the only ways that work for me are - if its small enough -lay it on bricks and surround it and put a tiger torch to it. You can even straighten a piece of cast that has been warped in a fire using this method,but you have to get it red hot. For welding purposes, dull red is enough. If its a larger piece like an engine block I weld them cold-(room temp-70F).I use mostly a high percent nickel rod like nirod55 or better. Forney sells a rod for cast that is marked NiFeCl that is even better -$20/lb.or more but worth it. On some real good cast you can use 308-stainless. I always use 3/32nd rod so I can keep the heat down to a minimum. V-out the joint and weld from both sides when possible. The other thing that I do that I think is the real answer is I use a controllable air punch with regulated pressure. I run short beads, with the air punch right handy. As soon as I quite welding I grab the airpunch and start peening the weld. The theory I work on is that I have to expand the weld at the same rate it is trying to contract at because it is cooling rapidly. It takes a little practise to know how hard to hit it and of course depends on the thickness your working with. I hit it harder at the beginning ,working up and down the weld, and then taper off the power for a duration of about 30sec. or more. Then I let it sit until the heat has transfered out of the weld and I don't run another bead until I can hold my bare hand on the weld.

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Keith in TX

10-29-2001 19:54:19




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 Re: Welding Cast Plough Share in reply to Mark, 10-26-2001 08:24:34  
If you cannot find one cheap, you can try welding it. I will share my best technique with any success welding cast and of course I learned this in school (school of hard knocks). Use a stick welder and you will need some type of heavy exotic rod (nickel, perfalloy, etc) Grind any rust off and get the crack well exposed. Weld only short beads at a time (1/2 inch or so) and let them cool reasonably before continuing. While waiting to cool brush all slag off after tapping with hammer. After allowing to cool repeat till done. This is my backyard technique and I have had fair to good success with it. Good luck!

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Gordon

10-27-2001 00:28:32




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 Re: Welding Cast Plough Share in reply to Mark, 10-26-2001 08:24:34  
The cast part needs to be heated to 1100 degrees welded at that temp then cooled slowly
if this is not done & the weld holds, the next break will be at the chill line (where the discoloraition stops)
good luck Gordon-in Tn



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mark

10-27-2001 13:58:24




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 Re: Re: Welding Cast Plough Share in reply to Gordon, 10-27-2001 00:28:32  
thanks



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Elmer

10-29-2001 05:05:37




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 Re: Re: Re: Welding Cast Plough Share in reply to mark, 10-27-2001 13:58:24  
Do you have a part number. I have some shares in stock and may be able to help you out.



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mark

11-04-2001 14:04:08




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Welding Cast Plough Share in reply to Elmer, 10-29-2001 05:05:37  
Sorry no number visible thanks anyway



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