> KLR, your mail is being refused, tried to send this but will post in hopes you see it!You make it sound like I said it was the end of the world to convert to
12V. I guess I just meant that the conversions change the character of
the tractor. I definetely prefer the 6v original. The alternators always
seem to stick out the side too far. since you've just rebuilt the engine (congrates!) it's probably still
pretty tight. run it for a while and see what happens. In the mean time
try to start it on 6v, a couple of times of about 5-8 secs each, and
feel each connection point of the wire. if there are any hot ones,
that's where the resistance is burning up you crank power. take apart
and wire brush clean, I use a nickel content never-sieze that prevents
the nuts from rusting and helps the conductivity of the connection. also
feel the wires for warmth, if warm they are probably the smaller
diameter 12v cables. replace with the larger diameter 6v ones. the
starters get tired too. I don't really know of a way to test these ,
except to take them to a car parts shop with a tester. I've had 12v
staters tested but I don't know if the "popular" ones can test 6v. you
might have to goto a rebuilder. I replaced the starter switch which was my problem. Its in front of the
steering housing on the top of the clutch casting. You probably saw it
there on your rebuild. I'm assuming that you still have the original
shift start working. I have seen some TO's with a hole cut in the dash
for a push button. Yech!! now there's a modification I really don't
like! removes the safety start and just looks out of place. Let me know how you make out.
Good luck, and watch out the connections can get smokin' hot! Rob
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