12-volt conversion for a 22

I took out the old 30amp ammeter and replaced it with a 60 so it doesn't get fried with the added current of the alternator. You'll have to make a alternator frame to
mount it. Just make sure you have adequate belt
contact over the fan pulley as it might slip. You may be tempted to overtighten the belt to
compensate which is hard on the pump. You can
get the alternator down low in the belt triangle
to prevent this and make a tin cover to take the
alternator out of the weather if it sticks out
too much. If your tractor has too small an area under
the instrument panel as it is now, you might want
to consider making a junction block between the engine and the dash and well under the engine
cover. All it is is a block of
plywood with a couple of machine bolts protruding
from one side that you connect your wires to. You
can also screw on a multi slot fuse bracket to the
block, and fuse all your lines. Make sure the block and screw heads are well insulated from the
tractor frame. Use a piece of inner tube for that. The block saves you from making all your heavy wire connections at the ammeter and other
instruments. It also saves you from undoing all
the wiring at the dash if you have to pull the
clutch or disconnect the tractor frame.
Make sure you use well crimped connectors at
all wire joints, and don't simply wrap the wires
around the contacts.

My 2 cents.