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BlueLight
03-30-2001 06:07:45
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Re: MH pony in reply to rhudson, 03-28-2001 15:58:31
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Smoke! and thats the oil burning blue stuff, and not the unspent gas, black smoke you get from
a rich carb. Check the plugs, there should be no
wet black oil on them. If it's rough idle, that's not too bad, could be valves but most likely points or carb. Let it warm up and see how it runs hot. Listen for a noticible thud when you accelerate the engine quickly in neutral from idle. That noise is main bearings gone, big job.
There's also piston slap, but I don't have any
experience in this area. The oil pressure should read above 10lbs hot but can go as low as, and no lower than 7 before a
major overhaul. Brakes may not be working, but that's not a
headache. Check for overly noisy transmission and drive
it around to get the trans oil warm. Check out all
gears. The shifting should go into each gear and
seem solidly locked in with a noticeable clunk. The shifting may be stiff but a little stiffness is their nature. They'll be stiff if the tractor is plagued by bad seals all around. That means low trans oil. The PTO should work, just pull the lever with the clutch in. The governor should kick in under load. Put
a chain around a boulder and slowly let the clutch
out with the engine at 1/4 throttle. The engine will start to slow down, but the governor should come to life and give it a bit of gas. Get off the tractor and move the throttle on the carb with your hands. You should see the governor arm move forward and back as you play with the throttle. Governors can be adjusted if there is
some movement, but could be broken if no reaction. A bad clutch will give noticeable slippage
under load. It should grab and hold when you release the clutch (stall the engine even). It is probably not too badly used unless your lucky and get one with a new clutch. Caked mud and crud around the rear axle where
it enters the hub means worn seals, (possible worn bearings too, but not likely I have found) a bit of a pain but a good job on a sunny day. Oil
dripping from the brake plate seam is oil seal
problem as well. Can be changed when you do the
brakes. Front bearings can be cleaned and changed.
Someone on the board had problems finding bearings I recall, but they can be found. Last but not least is the rear rims. If yours
is the standard MH, then you'll have rims made of
molded sheet steel. Check all around inboard and out and look for recent brazing. If the rims are gone, rusted paper thin, you'll have problems finding replacements. You could do the ball pean hammer bit and tap the rims, but the guy won't be happy if you go through. Probably have the inner tube explode too.
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