Al,
You can guesstimate the weight of the tire solution by assuming it's a cylinder with a 13 inch stroke and a 44 inch bore (estimating the tire is about 6 inches from rim to top and the dish of the rim is offset by the dome top of the tire) That's about 20k cu. in. Subtract out the inner volume where tire stops and the wheel lives of about 13x38 and that's about 15k cu. in. leaving about 5k cu. in. /1728 = about 3 cu. ft. Water weighs about 52 lbs. / cu. ft. so filled, the tire would hold 156lbs and 3/4 filled it would have 117 lbs of water with some plus or minus factors for Calcium Chloride or whatever other nasty stuff is in there. My book lists the optional wheel weight for that wheel as 150lbs. Sorry, can't read the part number as there's a big glop of Permatex over that portion of the page (nice to have a book someone has really used). Maybe somebody with one of the nifty CD ROM's can help with the P/N, but from what you're saying, you're going to be gaining weight by draining the liquid and adding the solid weight - which, I take it, is where you don't want to go. Also, to "tune" a thermostat for 180, you're either going to need to add more of the waxy goo that expands to open the the stat, or increase the spring rate that keeps the stat closed and pushes against the goo. Problem is 180 moves toward the good economy end of the scale on a pre-emissions engine. The power end of the scale lives closer to the 160 you have. Guessing if you're pulling you want power - so you might want to double think that thermostat thing. Steve
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