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Clooney John T

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JD-G

01-30-2003 17:52:54




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I am still restoring my 51 model G. While I had the flywheel and clutch off, I wanted to make sure my main bearings are good before reassembling. I didn't want to replace them if they were but really didn't know what the best test is to determine if they are still good. Also, if they're not, what is the proper way to determine what size bearings I would need. Thanks for any information.




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JD-G

01-31-2003 07:33:40




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 Re: Clooney John T in reply to JD-G, 01-30-2003 17:52:54  
Thanks to all for the feedback. I'll try what you said.



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John T

01-31-2003 09:06:36




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 Re: Re: Clooney John T in reply to JD-G, 01-31-2003 07:33:40  
You're sure welcome and good luck. John T



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Clooney

01-31-2003 06:36:00




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 Re: Clooney John T in reply to JD-G, 01-30-2003 17:52:54  
JD-G, start by mounting a dial indicator in the vertical direction between the case & crankshaft as close to the bearing housing as possible on first the L/H side, then the R/H side, then lifting the crankshaft up & down within it's play & seeing what the movement is. Rotate the crankshaft to about 5 or 6 different positions & re-measure [the crankshafts tend to wear egg shaped on the 2-cylinders] & note the lowest & highest reading. You want to see somewhere between .002"-.006". ~With a tractor that late [a 51] you might have the non adjustable R/H bearing so if the R/H side is worn you might need a new undersized bearing pressed into the housing & machined to fit your crank or the old split housing installed. ~In either case you should probably pull the bearing housings off & look at the bearings for wear through to the backings & scored crankshaft journals. Then measure the crankshaft for being out of round. How much wear you can live with depends a lot on the expected usage of the tractor when finished. ~If the wear is within reason & you re-use the original bearings, after re-assembly do the same measurement in 5 or 6 positions & set the bearing clearance to about .003� at the tightest point, then rotate the crankshaft to make sure it doesn�t have any binding when turned. Make sure to slide the shims down almost tight to the crankshaft so the oil doesn�t get through the gap between the shims & crank.
~To do the job correctly you really need a manual on your tractor as that will give specs & assembly directions to guide you through the checking, measuring & re-assembly of the bearings & other parts��.

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John T

01-31-2003 05:43:44




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 Re: Clooney John T in reply to JD-G, 01-30-2003 17:52:54  
Hey G Guy, I hope you dont offend the Clooney man by connectign him to me John T lol. Anyway, I dont have any bearing tolerance books or spec sheets, Clooney has a pretty good library of technical info and specs. Ive set similar things more by "feel" and "seat of my pants" however, like the good ol G Man there was talking about. Of course, as G Man says, if you can move or feel or detect ANY FREE PLAY WHATSOEVER, its too loose. I helped Henry do one a while back (wasnt a G though) and we simply added or removed shims ( no books or specs or plastic gauges used) until when rotating the crank (after torque down) there wasnt any "tight" drag. We like removed the thinnest ones we had left, and when doing so made it too tight or drag, we replaced those thinnest shims back. WARNING you have to do that drag and feel test (well lubed of course) AFTER you torque the bearigns back down. The tigntness (if one shim too many removed) shouldnt ocurr until AFTER she's torqued down. Maybe Clooney has some specs for you, but sorry, thats about all I have to offer like Forrrest Gump said "Thats all I have to say about that" lol Good Luck, Ol John T

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Gman

01-30-2003 19:56:21




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 Re: Clooney John T in reply to JD-G, 01-30-2003 17:52:54  
JD-G I aren't no John T.Or Clooney but like to talk "G"'s if you got the clutch assembly off grab the end of crank an see if you feel any deflection,if still in doubt remove the five bolts and loosen the two big bolts tht hold the two bearing halves together,take oil line loose from bearing endbell. Take a brass drift pen or a piece of wood and reach down thru crank cover and give it a gental tap and it will slide right out ,the other side will support crank,slide enbell and bearing off crank and take a look at it,going back with it kind lift up on crank and endbell will slide right back in place,if you still feel a little uneasey go down to parts house a get a ribbon feeler gauge(about 8"long) torque bearing back down about 150LBS and you should come up with 4-6 thou.clearance if you don't come up with this add or remove shims,ne sure to add or remove the same from both sides of bearing. later Gman

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