JD60 Won't Run When Warm

Thanks.
Bruce

So your 60 has the oval or oblong holes in the wheels? Mine is a '54 round holer wheel. Had fun with mine today moving snow.

Take care and blessings to all on the High Holy Day of American sports!

Steve

~There is still something not right with that ohm meter... � ohms is impossible, even hooking the 2 meter leads directly together will show some resistance unless zeroed out. If your coil had � ohms resistance it wouldn't be a coil but would be a super-conductor. Are you sure you weren't using the K or M scale?

~Measure the resistance of a standard household 100 watt light bulb [new one] it should be somewhere around 10 ohms plus or minus a little. If not, play with your meter to see what settings [or wire plug in's] need to be changed to obtain something close.

~If that ballast resistor eliminates your problem & you have run the tractor for long without one, you might want to consider a new set of points as the old ones are probably burnt [it doesn't take long if the points current was over 5 amps]..

..back down to earth.. Like these guys said, more likely it's a bad coil or you're feeing it too much juice. Back to the parts store - if they try to sell you anything housed in Bakelite - call John T.

..good to see you're having fun with it. Sure beats cabin fever!

Steve

Sooooo oo back to my earlier suggestion, it has to have continuity to get that hot and since it is gettign that hot, I again think it needs that external "ceramic" "bakelite" "bathtub" ballast resistor (how ya like that Steve in Indiana lol). Also, a bad condensor can give problems after warm up too remember. Ol John T

~Are you using the correct scale on your ohm meter? You need to use the 1X scale or the lowest scale you have. If you are using a cheap meter that only has a K, or K & M scale it won't give you a usable reading. If you are using a digital meter use the lowest scale, 1X scale, or Auto scale.

~If you can't get a cold reading on your meter in the 1-4 ohm range [with the wires disconnected] you have a bad coil [I doubt that as it runs cold] , or a defective meter, or you didn't correctly zero out your meter, or you don't have a 1X scale on your meter. My suggestion would be to take your coil to your local auto parts store as they usually have a means to test coils there, or at least have a digital multi-meter to use. If your auto parts store can't help you, maybe your local Radio Shack can.

~Due to that coil getting extremely hot it might need that ballast resistor but you really should check the resistance to be sure.

~While at the auto parts store if it shows lower than 2 ohms you can buy a ballast resistor [the NAPA auto parts- ECH 1CR13 works good @ about $14.00].

~Does your coil have any numbers, resistor recommendations, or voltages written on the can?

~Let us know how it turns out?

Bruce - Clooney has the right theory about that wiring diagram - and I just caught that you had it wired neg ground. So yes, your coil wiring is right, and swap what I said earlier.

The wiring diagram link is + ground, so it's all backwards and may have a resistor you don't need - but bearing that in mind it is readable. I just had to go out to the barn to get tools for a "honey do" project (Saturday nights used to be fun - where has my life gone? -- it's cold out there, too!) and brought back my 60 service manual - JD SM2008. The "wiring diagram" in there is a 2 inch square drawing of the entire tractor with some black lines running to black splotches labelled battery, starter, lights, and so on. The one size fits all diagram on the web page is a lot easier to read than the 50 foot away diagram in my manual - neither one of them is exactly "right" for your setup. So do the measurements, and if you can't get it exactly right, at least maybe you'll end up with something that works.

Here's hoping you have a good multi meter, and that the problem is electric and not oil pressure.

Steve

1. The way you describe it, it sounds electrical "dies as if you turned off a switch". Carb problems and compression problems usually have some coughing, stumbling, and wheezing involved before you come to a dead stop. The plus side of the coil should to go the distributor (assuming it's still pos ground with a 12 volt Delco coil / dist setup). Between the coil and the battery, you'd only have the switch and maybe a resistor. Could be something there is acting like a thermistor, i.e. reducing current flow from heat - not engine heat, but heat caused by the part's resistance. Easiest way to check that is jumper from the - side on the batt to the - side on the coil for one test session. If it runs with no problem then, you've found the culprit.

2. Are you watching the oil pressure gauge while this stuff is going on? Could be you have the setup which shuts off fuel when the oil pressure drops.

3. Fuel starvation (or what I do - run it out of gas) happens fairly quickly on a 60. Have you checked for crud in the tank or in the carb screen?

A few avenues to check - assume you'll get more pointers - also, here's a wiring diagram link below. Good luck with it.

Steve

• 60 wiring with pos ground and two 6V's in series

He said he'd replaced the coil - so my guess is it's 12V - as the list I have only shows 6V's for LP 60's (this stuff gets confused over time). Tried to find a 6 volt side mount coil recently - they're not too plentiful. Guessing he may have gotten a 12.

Anyway, like you say, best thing is to measure the resistance of the coil and the voltage to the coil to know for sure instead of assuming.

Steve

~If you have an ohm meter, just measure the resistance between the [+] & [-] terminals on the coil & if below 2 ohms it needs the later 60 ballast resistor [or, NAPA- ECH 1CR13 ballast resistor @1.82 ohms] & if above 3 ohms swap the wires on the coil to have [-] to the ignition switch & see if that helps.... [if you have an after market, or replacement negative ground ign coil the [+] terminal would go to the ign switch as you have it wired now]. If you still have the original internally resisted Deere 12 volt coil, the [-] might have to go to the ign switch [depends on the type of internal coil resistance], try swapping them to see if that helps.

~Are you sure it isn't running out of fuel & shutting down? Open the carb drain & make sure you are getting a pencil sized stream of fuel for at least 30 seconds. If your early 60 has the later oil pressure fuel shut off make sure that is not shutting down the fuel flow when the oil gets hot & thin & remember the knurled button will have to be held in while doing any fuel flow tests..... ....