Leaking PS Pump

~That can be a pretty big job, especially if the pump won't come out without moving the radiator or pulling the governor. It isn't a tremendous job but is one you won't want to do again soon, so take your time & make sure everything is clean & done correctly the first time. Get a manual & ask plenty of questions here as many people have had to re-do the pump seals because of problems encountered the first time.

~You can "TRY" putting a piece of tin or laminate between the fan & radiator fins [so you don't poke a hole in the radiator core] then unbolting the fan shroud, pump lines, generator & removing the lower pump support bracket then seeing if you can work the pump out [fan & all]. On some it will come out, & on others it will not quite come out. When first pulling the pump forward make sure the fan shaft & drive coupling stays to the rear & doesn't come forward with it. If the pump won't move forward enough to come out, or won't quite clear the fan tube, you can try removing the radiator lower bolts & pulling the radiator forward, sometimes you can move it just enough without pulling the pipes to get the pump out. If the radiator & pipes are rusted & corroded, or the bolts are apt to break, you might be better off pulling the governor to get the fan tube out of the way.

~The biggest problem in pulling just the pump without pulling the radiator or governor is, if the fan shaft couplings are bad, you will only be able to replace the front but not the rear, or won't be able to inspect shaft rear splines & will still have to pull the fan tube if further problems are found.

~You will probably have problems getting the fan drive hubs off the splined fan shaft & will need to be a little careful as those hubs are rather fragile & break easily. If the drive clutch disks are worn thin replace those also.

~Once the pump is out & apart, inspect the pump shaft splines for wear, inspect the shaft for scoring & wear & inspect the pump bushings for wear. The 2 gear drive keys should be replaced [they're cheap] & if the front seal has been leaking for long replace the front sealed bearing as the leaking oil has probably washed the grease from the sealed bearing.

~ The original pump seals were one piece units that are no longer available from Deere so you will need 4- [AR21900R] seals & one [R21720R] spacer. The seals go in the rear back to back [lips facing away from each other] with the [R21720R] spacer between them & the front seals need to go in with the one closest to the pump installed with the lip facing the pump & the other one can probably go either way but I always install it with the lip facing the pump also as that puts the seal lip at an unused point on the shaft, offers extra leak protection & allows farther spacing between the lips. Pack some wheel bearing grease between the seals before installing the pump shaft as both outer seals don't get any direct lubrication from pump oil. The pump will need to be clean & a light coat of gasket sealer put on the pump & body mating surfaces as no gasket is used between them.

Thats not a terrible job but its not the most exciting thing either. Heres how I did my 60. Pull the grill pull the hood and gas tank. Disconnect the p/s lines. Disconect the upper and lower radiator hose. Take the three bolts out of the top of the air cleaner and pull that. Take the support for the p/s pump out from underneath. loosen the generator. Then up on top of the pedestal the bearing housing where the steering rod connects has 2 bolts take them out and turn it horizontal. dont remove that hsg just turn it then loosen the 2 bolts in the bottom of the radiator and take a ratchet strap and tilt if forward against the pedestal. then remove the 2 bolts in the p/s pump and ease it forward and tilt it so it comes out and becareful of the fan shaft coupler at the back hold it in the fan tube with a screwdriver or you might play hel! getting it back in. And lastly check those pump splines and that front couple VERY well thats why i had to pull my pump. Ask clooney for the seal directions i cant remember them right now. Thanks Chris

There's an article in Two-cylinder this month by Gary Uken on Power Steering rebuilds. Says to put the seals in face to face (now they use two seals instead of the original one). He says not to use the spacer now called for, but I did. I will in there, it's just a tight squeeze. That's the way I did it.

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855