JD50 generator wiring

~The first thing you will need is the correct regulator for you application. If you are keeping your tractor positive ground then you will need either a positive ground regulator or regulator rated to both positive & negative ground. Not all are, & some are just positive, or negative, but not both.

~Below is brief copy of what I usually send with return E-Mails for "how to" on 50 generator wiring�����.

~There are differences in the early & late 50 [over or under s/n 5014648] as far as wiring diagrams go, but for the purpose of wiring the generator they are pretty close.

~Mount the regulator solidly on the generator making sure it has a good contact to the generator frame [the regulator must have a good ground to operate].

~Once the regulator is mounted on the generator, run a 14 gauge [ black], or [green] color wire from the regulator [F]or [fld] terminal to the generator [F] post {smaller of the two}...nothing else goes on either or these terminals or regulator damage can result.

~Then run a [white] color 12 gauge wire from the regulator [GEN] or [ARM] �could be marked either�.. terminal to the generator [A] post [larger of the two].

~Then run a [white] color 12 gauge wire from the regulator [BAT] terminal to the [ammeter] non-battery side stud.

~All loads [including the BAT wire from the voltage regulator to ammeter ] hook to the non�battery side stud of the ammeter. Exception is a cigarette lighter, that would hook to the battery side of the ammeter. When the system is put into operation, if the [ammeter] reads backwards just reverse the wires on the ammeter from side to side to get correct ammeter operation.

~If your regulator has an [L] terminal, the ignition & light feed [load] would hook to the [L] terminal on the regulator. So if your regulator has that [L] terminal you would run a [black] 14 gauge wire from the voltage regulator [L] terminal to the [BAT] terminal on the ignition switch, then run a jumper from the [BAT] terminal on the ignition switch to the light switch feed terminal.

~If your regulator doesn�t have that [L] terminal [most replacements don�t] then just run a 14 gauge [black] wire from the [ammeter] non-battery side stud to the ignition switch [BAT] terminal. & run another 14 gauge wire from the [ammeter] non-battery side stud to the light switch feed terminal.

~On the original early 50 [under s/n 5014647] �I think� (not positive though) the wire from the [ammeter] battery side stud ran from the [ammeter] to the big stud on the starter, but you can run it to the battery non-grounded side [the most negative battery post on a positive ground system]..Run a 12 gauge [white] color wire from the [ammeter] battery side stud to the big stud on the starter being careful to keep it away from the flywheel & sharp edges.

~On the late 50�s [after s/n 5014647 the wire ran from the [ammeter] battery side stud to the negative post on the non-grounded battery [2- battery system], or just the negative battery post if using a single battery, using the same harness as the rear lights.

~Once it is all together & the battery is installed & charged you must polarize the generator by momentarily jumping the [BAT] terminal on the regulator to the [GEN or ARM] terminal on the generator [if you see a spark it is polarized, if no spark, make sure you have battery power to the [BAT] terminal on the regulator. CAUTION: at no time run any power to the regulator [F] terminal or generator [F] post as severe regulator damage could result

~It usually helps to print these "how to's" out & take them to the tractor for immediate reference. Then keep a copy in the owners manual for future trouble-shooting.

The F (Field) off the VR goes to Field on the generator, which is the smaller of its 2 posts.

The Arm (or Gen) terminal on the VR gets wired to the Armature, the bigger of the 2 generator posts.

All loads (including the wire to the Bat on the VR) get wired to the load (non battery) side of the ammeter if it has one, and that includes the wire feedign the ignition and/or light switch.

On the 3 wire VR systems, thats where (load side of ammeter) all circuits get their power, whether it be lights or ignition etc. If it has a 4 wire VR with Arm (usually out bottom) Bat, Gen, and Load, then the only thing wired to the load (non battery) side of the ammeter (or to battery if no ammeter is used) is the Bat terminal off the VR, while all other loads like igntion or light switches are fed off the Load (L) VR terminal.

I use a 12 Gauge wire from the VR Bat terminal up to the ammeter or battery and 14 is plenty for all those other VR wires, except I use a 12 off the load side of ammeter to the lights or ignition switches etc.

Polarize the system after all is wired by momentarily jumping a wire from the Bat terminal on the VR to the Arm or Gen terminal and it should spark.

The battery power (to get to Bat on the VR through ammeter if it has one) is usually wired off the starter post or it could go direct to teh ungrounded batt terminal. Then remember, it has to get to the Bat terminal on the VR through any ammeter if it has one.

Light and ignition switches are fed power off the load side of ammeter if it has one, unless you have a 4 wire VR with the Load (L) terminal, and then they are fed off the circuit coming from the VR's L terminal.

I have a general 50 wiring diagram, e mail me if you want me to send it to you, and post back any more questions. Good Luck, Ol John T Nordhoff in Indiana. This is all for a 3 or 4 wire full fledged VR and not a generator with a 2 wire cutout relay.