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Calling all G governor gurus........

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G-MAN

01-18-2003 12:16:53




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I'm fixing to tear into the governor on my "G", so that I can have all of my engine parts clean and reconditioned at once, for final assembly in the next couple months. Are there any specific dos or don'ts on one of these units? Any tricks or tips to aid in getting maximum performance out of one the first time? I'll be replacing any worn parts and basically putting it back to factory new condition as much as possible. I also want the throttle response and speed control to be as dead-on as possible, so I'd appreciate any good knowledge or info. Thanks in advance for any info.

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Jack

01-21-2003 07:18:11




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 Re: Calling all G governor gurus........ in reply to G-MAN, 01-18-2003 12:16:53  
My 53 G governor was in fine shape but I wanted more response so all I did was add an extra flat spring to it and it really perked it up.Good luck.



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bigmotors

01-19-2003 17:42:48




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 Re: Calling all G governor gurus........ in reply to G-MAN, 01-18-2003 12:16:53  
GMAN- After years of missing with the governor, your best just to put in all new parts and keep it stock. Make sure your weights weigh the same. The biggest thing is to have no slop in the weight pins. I redrill and put bigger pins in. Make sure you have no slop with your rods going from your carb. to the governor. Drop me a e-mail, and I'll tell you more.
Good Luck!



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Garland

01-18-2003 19:21:37




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 Re: Calling all G governor gurus........ in reply to G-MAN, 01-18-2003 12:16:53  
G-man I can tell you some experinces I've had,the gov.weight arms go behind the slide assembly next to bevel gear I accidently put them in the wrong spot on my puller brother did it cut a shine turned a bunch of rpms.I've got a "41 G that has a small hole drilled in oil galley directly across from the outside bearing,I flipped gov.housing over on it's back and pressureized the oil galley and it sprayed the nices little stream of oil to this bearing,my other "G"s don't have this or are plugged, the distributor end bearing is job to remove and replace be carefull not to bend shaft getting to it,this bearing is like the one on the pulley end ,it is often neglected. I'm always experimenting trying new things I put B weights in the Gov. on the "G" puller it seems more responsive but will surge alittle @ 3/4 throttle,my theory was the less ressistance at full throttle I wanted just enough gov. action to keep engine under control you're a mechanic please respond to that. got to run Gman

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Mike Aylward

01-18-2003 15:42:51




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 Re: Calling all G governor gurus........ in reply to G-MAN, 01-18-2003 12:16:53  
G-Man, in addition to what the other folks mentioned one thing to be sure to check are the surfaces on the governor weights that contact the thrust bearing. These tend to get flat after several years and MUST have a nice round profile for the governor to work like it should. This can be easily remedied and I have reconditioned several of them and reused them. A well-tuned governor should open your carburetor if the tractor is put under load at just above idle speed. Most people have never seen a governor work that is "right". Hope this helps. Mike

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Clooney

01-18-2003 14:51:18




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 Re: Calling all G governor gurus........ in reply to G-MAN, 01-18-2003 12:16:53  
G-MAN, you might want to take that question to the puller board. Those guys try to get the best & quickest response possible out of the governors.
~I personally don't build for speed but try for dependability. ~Things to look for are: that the R/H bearing hasn't been spinning in the case & worn the bearing bore [common],,,that the fan gears aren't worn to a thin sharp edge [common],,,that the weights aren't worn & loose or hitting the case [common,,,that the pins, pin bosses & weight holes aren't worn & allowing slop,,,that the gears aren't loose on the shaft,,,that the shaft isn't bent,,,that the fork & fork shaft aren't worn,,,that the gear teeth aren't worn to a sharp edge or worn more in one place than another [common with the unique 2-cylinder firing pulses],,,that the governor arm spring isn't rust pitted or worn therefore having less spring pressure.
~A lot of governor response is due to carb set-up & the carb must be right with proper linkage adjustment. I sometimes adjust the governor linkage rod 1 full hole short rather than 1/2 hole short. It seems to quicken the governor response but that might not be the case with a newly overhauled governor. Maybe 1 hole short just lets the governor work in a different [less worn] part of governor travel.....

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JD

01-18-2003 14:13:53




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 Re: Calling all G governor gurus........ in reply to G-MAN, 01-18-2003 12:16:53  

Hey G-MAN! Rabert's Carburetor Repair has a good videos. One of them is, how to rebuild governors. 121 min. $23.95



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John D

01-18-2003 13:06:17




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 Re: Calling all G governor gurus........ in reply to G-MAN, 01-18-2003 12:16:53  
G-MAN, I completely tore my governor apart, glass beaded it and put in all new bearings and etc. Mine was completely froze up, the tractor sat outside for 10 years. Be sure and kept the fan shaft and flywheel side cover gasket, when you put it back together you will need to put the same thickness of gaskets in both places. I have pictures if you want I will be glad to email them to you. John D



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