? about A B's

~ You asked; "will they really run (once warmed up) on diesel, kerosene as well as gasoline? That sounds like good flexibility".... They will run good on gasoline, good on kerosene if the coolant temperature is kept above 200� & not worth beans on #2 diesel unless the coolant is at the boiling point & the tractor is kept under a solid load..

You don't have to walk home with a C or an H Farmall either (not sure I'd wanna try to hand crank an M) -- they've got those spring loaded shafts sticking out front to mount a crank in case the electric start fails. Having messed with the rusted steering wheel nut (yes, I know, I'm the real nut behind the wheel) on my 60, the Farmall setup makes a bit more sense - assuming you've brought the crank along.

I think Grimreap really ought to get one of each! Then he can make himself crazy pushing his foot on a clutch pedal that isn't there on the JD and reaching for a hand clutch lever that's missing on the Farmall. Also, you get to decide whether you prefer the pop over the mellow hum. Another revelation I've learned by having one of each is that red paint generally doesn't cost as much as green or yellow -- but red painted stuff isn't nearly so available, which means your savings are offset by the time spent searching for it -- kind of like searching for the right place to disengage the clutch. In other words -- you'll like both or either of them, Grimreap.

Steve

Sorry if I impunged your handcranking skills. I don't have a crank for my red H - and ain't gonna buy one. The wheel nut is safely loctited on my 60 and I don't have a steering/flywheel adapter. You see, we're not that far from the Dayton Electric Co (DELCO) plant in Anderson and are required to pay homage to Kettering for inventing those electric starter things by using them exclusively (nice excuse, huh?).

Seems to me that Farmalls (H's and M's anyway)also came in gas and dual fuel versions - principles are the same. The letter Farmalls without live hydraulics are nearly as clumsy as a hand clutch for loader work. Also, JD A's or B's with rockshafts are a lot easier to convert to a 3pt than an H or M, and maybe easier to convert than a fast hitch on a Super C. Best setup may be to get a B and a red H - the rear rims and tires are interchangeable. What's more, with an A or B you only have to buy 2 plugs instead of 4, adjust 4 valves instead of 8, and you'll never need to split the tractor or work upside down on the clutch, too (we don't talk about how it's easier to stand in one place and set a Farmall's ignition timing, or how you can stand up and adjust valve lash on this forum).

Outside of that, a row crop tractor spends 90% of its waking hours going the same speed in the same direction - so the main difference Grimreap will notice is the exhaust note, and that he's got to look on the dash instead of the hood to see all the gauges. It's only when you stop to go backwards or forwards that the clutch placement tests your reflexes (and I also notice nobody has said much about how fun it is to back a wagon with a hand clutch, or the fine art of playing footsie with the hand clutch lever).

Steve