Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Clooney
:

Leaky 70D Update

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Blksmok

01-03-2003 15:18:34




Report to Moderator

Clooney...I finally got around to pulling the pulley, reduction cover and power shaft gear off of the 70D that was badly leaking crankcase oil into the transmission. As I pulled the gear off of the crankshaft, I could see the garter spring on the outside seal was hanging loose on the crankshaft behind the gear. When I pulled the main bearing housing I could quickly see what the problem was. Apparently, moisture/water got between the two seals and because the tractor sat for a long time (outside) without being used the lip sealing area on the crank was corroded badly. I imagine the seal lips became "stuck" to the crank surface and then when the engine was finally started after many years the rotational torque distorted the seals and popped the spring off the outside seal and tore the lip on the inside seal. I polished the crank surface and will reassemble everything this weekend. Later.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Clooney

01-03-2003 18:56:19




Report to Moderator
 Re: Clooney - Leaky 70D Update in reply to Blksmok, 01-03-2003 15:18:34  
Blksmok, while you're that far into it you might want to pull the R/H main bearing to see if there is rust on the crank in there. I haven't done a R/H main seal in the 70D in a while now so can't remember, but [if] there is an oil return hole behind the inner seal, make sure you don't drive the seal in far enough to cover it up or you will still have an oil leak at the seal.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Blksmok

01-03-2003 20:25:37




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Clooney - Leaky 70D Update in reply to Clooney, 01-03-2003 18:56:19  
Clooney...when you pull the housing out the RH main bearing comes with it. The main bearing and the crank surface it runs on looks ok. I checked the oil return hole and that was open. My service manuals says to install the new seals after the main bearing housing is reinstalled and to pack grease in between them for start-up lubrication. I'll let you knw how it turns out. Later,



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Clooney

01-04-2003 04:49:29




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: Clooney - Leaky 70D Update in reply to Blksmok, 01-03-2003 20:25:37  
Blksmok, you didn't say in your initial post that you had pulled the bearing housing off & I just assumed you pulled the seals with the housing still on the tractor. Don't block that oil return hole in the housing when installing the seals. The seals should be installed after the housing is bolted back on the tractor.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
BJ

01-03-2003 15:53:14




Report to Moderator
 Re: Clooney - Leaky 70D Update in reply to Blksmok, 01-03-2003 15:18:34  
Glad to hear you found your problem, hardest part of that job was probably pulling the PTO gear off the crankshaft the bad part is they go back on just as hard, good luck



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Blksmok

01-03-2003 20:31:08




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Clooney - Leaky 70D Update in reply to BJ, 01-03-2003 15:53:14  
BJ...when I did the one on my 720D, I wrapped the gear in tin foil and put in an oven @ 400 degrees for ~ an hour. Then I quick headed to the barn and slid it into place using a brass drift pin. Seemed to work. Later.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Charles

01-03-2003 18:19:37




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Clooney - Leaky 70D Update in reply to BJ, 01-03-2003 15:53:14  
The gear will go back on pretty easily if you heat it to 250 or 300 degrees or so. You just have to move quickly because as it cools it gets tight on the shaft pretty fast. On my 70D I heated the gear and then used a large brass drift to gently tap it into position in a matter of seconds... now I have to do the same seal repair on the 50 which should be easier (smaller parts).



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy