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2950 loss of hydraulics

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Don

12-27-2002 20:05:01




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I have a 2950 with fwd. After the tractor warms, the rockshaft is extremely slow to rise and the auxilarys also loose both pressure and flow. I have a snow plow conected to the auxilaries. When it is cold, it can raise the plow and angle it. As it warms, it gets slower and slower, to the point it won't even angle the blade. The high low selector and the PTO stay put at low idle and the low pressure indicator light does work so I believe the low pressure pump is ok. The power steering works fine warm or cold, so I believe the hydraulic pump is also ok. One auxilary and the rockshaft did have internal leakage prior since they exibited some settleing. I have ordered rebuild kits for the rockshaft, the SCV's, and the flow control valve. Somehow, I feel like I am missing something. Anybody have any suggestions?

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Bob W

12-29-2002 19:59:00




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 Re: 2950 loss of hydraulics in reply to Don , 12-27-2002 20:05:01  
Don-- here are my two (Canadian) cent worth. Visual inspection usually doesn't come into play on hydraulic diagnostics but try this anyway. Once the tractor is warm and the problem occurs, remove the filler cap from the rockshaft housing and look/listen for oil running or spraying from the top right/front area of the rockshaft housing. You may need a flashlight to do this. This is one of the most common hydraulic problems that we see, so much so that Mother Deere has a kit for this repair. It includes the rockshaft/diff housing gasket plus all o-rings and backup washers. Like G-man said its hard to fix over the net but like to try and help

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John

12-28-2002 12:49:22




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 Re: 2950 loss of hydraulics in reply to Don , 12-27-2002 20:05:01  
Just a slight possibility. Check the destroking valve on the pump to see if its all the way closed. I believe thats the out position. Looks like a radiator petcock and sits on the top left side of the hydraulic pump. It was an option on some Deeres and you may or may not have it.



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Gordon

12-28-2002 08:12:05




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 Re: 2950 loss of hydraulics in reply to Don , 12-27-2002 20:05:01  
Did you change the hyd filters and oil?



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Don

12-28-2002 14:27:48




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 Re: Re: 2950 loss of hydraulics in reply to Gordon, 12-28-2002 08:12:05  
Oil changed, screen cleaned and filter changed about 150 hours ago in June. It was really clean then and the filters were really clean also. It had about 200 hrs on that fluid and filter then. I changed it then since I split the tractor to replace the clutch and throw out bearing. Manual recomends filter every 500 hrs and fluid every 1000 hrs. Fluid is still as clear as new, can hardly see it on the dipstick. Hydraulics are only lightly used, lift the mower in the summer and snow plow in the winter.

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G-MAN

12-28-2002 07:55:48




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 Re: 2950 loss of hydraulics in reply to Don , 12-27-2002 20:05:01  
Don, I don't have a 2950 manual here, and I'm not familiar with that model, but it seems to me that you have a leak somewhere in your system or you have a worn pump that is having trouble pumping enough of the thinner oil when it warms up. Your steering will have priority, so it should be the last thing to stop working regardless of whatever else happens. Steering also doesn't use a large volume of oil, and oil is returned to the system from the other side of the steering motor - so you're just moving it from one side to the other. I would get a service manual and go through the troubleshooting section step by step. Check everything as the book shows, and you will likely find the quickest and cheapest solution, rather than just throwing parts at the thing in the hope something fixes it.

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Don

12-28-2002 15:04:36




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 Re: Re: 2950 loss of hydraulics in reply to G-MAN, 12-28-2002 07:55:48  
Thanks. I do have the service manual. However I haven't collected all the various fittings to connect my pressure gauges yet and there are some special connections I won't be able to get. The pressure control valve allows fluid to the rock shaft and SCV's at ~1800 psi with normal standby pressure ~2300 psi. What I don't know is at what pressure will I notice a difference in the power steering. Since the steering is operating easy and smooth at idle, my assumption is I should have enough pressure/flow to lift an empty rockshaft at full throttle, but I don't. I do know my rock shaft settles and one SCV creeps to one direction indicating internal leakage. They have been doing this for many years. The parts I ordered so far are needed to fix these issues, but may not be the cause of my most recent problem. I would take it to the dealer, but he gave me an estimate of $2500 just to rebuild the rock shaft valve assembly. Parts to refresh the SCV, rockshaft, and presure control valve total $100 and a rebuilt pump is about $800. I also have a 2350 and the rockshaft leaks so bad it is esentially useless but the hydraulics can still operate the bucket fine. This probably means that my pump is on its way out. But you are right that I need to connect the gauges as outlined in the manual. After I am done with these two tractors, I will know a lot more about John Deere hydraulics.

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G-MAN

12-28-2002 17:08:47




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 Re: Re: Re: 2950 loss of hydraulics in reply to Don, 12-28-2002 15:04:36  
Don, it's hard to diagnose these problems by computer, but you're ahead of the game since you have the book. One thing you might consider is going through the rockshaft valve adjusting procedure before tearing into it. If it won't adjust properly it might clue you in to where your problems lies. A main pump quick-check will also give you some indication of your pump condition, but you'll need a flowrater to do it. Steering in normal conditions such as on smooth concrete shouldn't take a bunch of pressure. You're right about the rockshaft valve rebuild. Parts are pretty reasonable but the job is labor intensive, although $2500 seems real high to me. Depending on the tractor, 10 hours of labor should be enough to pull the valve, rebuild it, install it and adjust it. SCVs are much easier. I can usually pull the box, completely disassemble it, grind the seats, steam out the housing good and reassemble one in a couple of hours give or take, and maybe an extra hour or so if I'm replacing the barrels and seals. We use shop air and our ears to adjust the valves, which is much easier and quicker than using the special tools and dial indicator. You plug in a coupler connected to air and adjust the pressure spool for one side and the return spool for the other side on the side you're plugged into. As long as you make sure the return sides crack open before the pressure sides do, you're fine. If you get to that point and want some better instructions on that procedure, drop me an email.

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