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Ever had this trouble?

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Jack

12-14-2002 06:27:20




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I had some shot valves on my late styled G so I decided to fix it.While I had the head off I had it milled down so I assume it would be true.I cleaned the block good and installed a new head gasket and torqued the head down to 210 ft lbs.I have a tiny antifreeze leak on the left corner of where the head and block meet.Will running it and getting it hot seal it or is it stop leak time?Will the studs take 5 more ft lbs of torque?Thanks.

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Jack

12-14-2002 08:59:56




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 Re: Ever had this trouble? in reply to Jack, 12-14-2002 06:27:20  
I throwed two bottles of stop leak(Bars Leaks)in it and ran her up and down the road.After about 10 minuits of good running and a steep hill and a little brake riding she stopped leaking.Them new valves and .250 off the head really made a difference going up Red Hill,she did not lose much at all in high gear.I need to get it on the dyno and see how much it helped.I gained 26 psi per cylinder.I was 110 psi and now I have 136 psi.Later fellas.

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ron in MN

12-14-2002 18:39:27




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 Re: Re: Ever had this trouble? in reply to Jack, 12-14-2002 08:59:56  
You mentioned .250 off the head. That's a 1/4 inch. I suspect you meant .025, 25 thousanths of an inch. I'm not a machinist and have never had a head or block machined but seems a 1/4 inch would be way too much. Blow me down if I'm wrong!



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Jack

12-15-2002 07:17:25




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 Re: Re: Re: Ever had this trouble? in reply to ron in MN, 12-14-2002 18:39:27  
Todd is right it was and is .250 thousanths off.It gained me over twenty psi per cylinder over what it was.



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Todd

12-14-2002 21:33:39




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 Re: Re: Re: Ever had this trouble? in reply to ron in MN, 12-14-2002 18:39:27  
.250 can easily be taken off.



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John T

12-14-2002 08:40:04




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 Re: Ever had this trouble? in reply to Jack, 12-14-2002 06:27:20  
Jack, I have seen this happen before but after a long thorough warm up and then a final re torque, it eventually stopped. Just check the torques again and maybe go 5 lbs over after shes been nice and warm and then if necessary, add some stop leak AFTER AND DURING shes warm and running. I have had good luck with Bars Leak brand. I clean the surfaces and use a light coat of Kopper Kote and thats worked pretty well. Let us all know, Ol John T Nordhoff

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Ron

12-14-2002 07:21:09




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 Re: Ever had this trouble? in reply to Jack, 12-14-2002 06:27:20  
You didn't state wheather you have thoroughly got it up to operating temp---several times, the RE-Torqued the head.... The re-torqueing is important..you will be surprised how much the head gasket settles..! Re-Torqueing should be done with the engine at full operating temp...not just "warmed up"... Small leaks do seem to disappear after a while...
Stop-Leak ( I like Bars-leaks ) does help. Good Luck..!!

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Clooney

12-14-2002 06:58:41




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 Re: Ever had this trouble? in reply to Jack, 12-14-2002 06:27:20  
Jack, you want to be careful increasing the torque. While those studs could probably stand a little more torque than the specs, the amount of torque you applied is hard to figure. The amount of actual stretch applied to a bolt or stud is dependent on many things including the lubrication on the threads, the lubrication between the nut & it's friction surface, the condition of the nut & stud threads & the calibration of your torque wrench. If you over-torque those studs you could stretch them past their yield point & that will actually lower their retaining ability & make it impossible to keep them tight. If you torqued them to specs & did a hot re-torque you probably have a different problem like uneven sealing surface, imperfection in the head gasket, nick in the metal or gasket or ? I always use a gasket sealer on the head gaskets around all the water & oil passages on the 2-cylinder heads to eliminate problems like you are seeing.
~A little stop leak might be all that's required to stop a small seep but that stuff isn't that effective if used in a thermo-siphon system without pre-mixing before installing. If you have a late "G" with water pump then just dump it in & run the tractor under load for a while. If it has a thermo-siphon system, warm the tractor, then drop the coolant & premix the stop leak, then put the coolant back in & work the tractor for a while. Or you could rig a small pump from the block drain & pump the coolant back into the radiator top with hot coolant after adding stop leak.

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Donny-B

12-14-2002 08:11:51




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 Re: Re: Ever had this trouble? in reply to Clooney, 12-14-2002 06:58:41  
Clooney, What do you use on the sealing surfaces of a head gasket for a 2 cylinder? The IT manual tells you to dip them in oil, let them drain for a few minutes, then install. I never heard of this proceedure before. I have sprayed most head gaskets with copper coat or nothing. Felpro Permatorq gaskets require no sealer as they have it allready applied. The gaskets I have bought for my styled D are OEM so what should I use? Thanks and Merry Christmas.

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Clooney

12-14-2002 08:52:06




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 Re: Re: Re: Ever had this trouble? in reply to Donny-B, 12-14-2002 08:11:51  
Donny-B, while everybody seems to have their own favorite gasket sealer, I personally have used #3 Permatex for years on hundreds of head gaskets without any problems or side effects. One of the main requirements of ANY sealer is the mandatory re-torque of the head after a few heating & cooling cycles. I don't like to put any sealer on the fire rings of the head gasket so shy away from spray on type sealers.

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