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Wayne in Tn.
12-29-2003 10:15:04
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Re: Re: is it ready to paint in reply to F-I-T, 12-29-2003 05:11:53
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520LP, My son has owned a body shop for years, and only works on the high-dollar cars, ie. Corvettes, Jags, ect.
Washing with laquer thinner is not too good, unless you are down to bare metal with no old paint left anywhere. It causes the old paint to lift and crumble and can cause problems with new paint.
The procedure I use on sheet metal is to sandblast it first, then DA the bare metal, then give it a coat of etching primer to stop any rust.
Then I use a 3 part primer that has its own hardner and thinner, like paint. Apply a good coat, then wet sand with 400 grit, making sure not to go through the first coat of etching primer. The etching primer I use is green and the 3 part primer is gray.
After the first sanding with 400 then I put another coat of the 3-part primer and sand again with 400 or 500. Usually this second sanding and priming will get all the sand scratches or any imperfections out and be ready to paint. If you have done lots of repairs on the metal, it may take a third coat of primer and sanding.
Then after the final primering and sanding, I wipe it all with a product called Final Clean, this will remove any oil or fingerprints from the surface.
Then after mixing the paint and getting ready to spray, I wipe it a final time with a tack cloth to remove any dust, fuzz, or lint that may have landed on the prepared surface.
I use Classic Greeen, with a synthetic hardner and synthetic reducer added. Most brands have 3 choices in reducers: Fast, Med, and Slow. According to the temperature, Fast is for cold and Slow is for hot weather....Just remember, paint does not cover any imperfections, if you have the surface prepared to a mirror smooth finish, with the primer, then the paint will turn out a mirror finish.
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