Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Discussion Forum
:

Broken studs

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Dude

11-26-2002 11:17:22




Report to Moderator

I was removing the manifold to the head studs on an A (they were turning) and then..... guess what? Does anyone have the best solution to remove the rest? They are broken off flush with the surface. Thanks




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
DAVE E

11-26-2002 18:57:59




Report to Moderator
 Re: broken studs in reply to Dude, 11-26-2002 11:17:22  
Weld a washer on first, you can't get a good weld down in a nut. Then weld a nut to the washer and as CJDAVE said let it cool before running it out.I just did the manifold bolts and the platform bolts on a 530, all came out easy. Also, if time is not an issue, soak them with penetrating for a day first. K&W Knock-er-loose is very good. Good luck.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Peter B.

11-26-2002 17:16:37




Report to Moderator
 Re: broken studs in reply to Dude, 11-26-2002 11:17:22  
In the "oil patch" we used left hand drill bits to
remove broken studs. If the drill bit hung up in the stud, some times the stud would come loose, and screw its self out. If we did not get lucky, still had the hole for a easy out. Just FYI.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Mike J.

11-26-2002 16:51:12




Report to Moderator
 Re: broken studs in reply to Dude, 11-26-2002 11:17:22  
You might try a tool called an Easy Out, which usually can be found at local auto parts store and are reasonably priced. You have to drill into the broken stud with the matching size bit for the easy out and then insert the Easy Out. Then spin the broken stud out with a wrench over the end of the easy out. There are a couple of different styles of easy out bits, but I don't have a preference of one over the other. If this doesn't work you still have the options of drilling and retapping or welding washers and nuts on to spin it out. Good Luck!!!!

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bob Collins

11-27-2002 10:46:31




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: broken studs in reply to Mike J., 11-26-2002 16:51:12  
Years ago, after seeing lots of Easy Outs broken, an old mechanic where I worked let me in on a fact. He said Easy outs were for removing bolts and studs thay you broke when you were INSTALLING them. For old siezed ones, drill and tap or weld on a washer and nut, as the others have already said. Over the years I have spared the breaking of lots of easy outs by remembering this. After all if they really were EASY, we wouldn't be having this discussion. My $0.02.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
MikeH-Tx

11-27-2002 15:35:18




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: broken studs in reply to Bob Collins, 11-27-2002 10:46:31  
I agree 100%.

EZ outs are very risky. I particularly don't like the ones that are shaped like a cone with "threads." They put so much pressure on the stuck bolt that it seldom frees up. The square ones are better, but I still hate them.

A broken EZ out is good steel that has to be removed. Much bigger problem than the old rusted bolt of mediocre steel.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CJDave

11-26-2002 15:58:05




Report to Moderator
 Re: broken studs in reply to Dude, 11-26-2002 11:17:22  
I used to have a "miracles" bucket in the corner of my old shop where I tossed the studs removed by welding. I cannot think of a single one we had to walk away from, but the trick is to use the heat-shrink to your advantage. When you weld on, use plenty of heat so the whole shaft of the stud is heated cherry red. Then when you are done, RESIST the urge to even try it. Go do something else until the whole stud has returned to ambient temp. The stud heats....swells....crushes the rust....then SHRINKS back farther than it was originally, giving you that infintisimal amount of clearance that you need. Then put a box end on it and go back and forth gently to get rotation and then on out. Sometimes you need to weld on a second time....and a third time....but you'll get it. A wire welder is best, but I've used every kind of buzz box ever made with equal success.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
John T

11-26-2002 14:25:43




Report to Moderator
 Re: broken studs in reply to Dude, 11-26-2002 11:17:22  
Dude, since they are broken off flush, it may be hard to weld on a nut down inside its middle without weldign it to the head, but you might give that a try. We have decent luck welding a nut on a broken stud if theres anything left to weld to, but at a flush surface break, it may not work. If not, the important thing when drilling it out is to try and grind it down smooth so you can use a dot punch to start the bit at the dead center of the stud. Good steady slow vertical drilling with a good sharp hard bit hopefully will drill her out. Dont drill through any pushrod tubes and once done, I use hard studs, anti sieze lube, and stainless nuts and washers when I reassemble. I usually have the manifold planed down nice and smooth and havent had any new gasket leaks after all that. Good luck, Ol John T

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Clooney

11-26-2002 14:09:29




Report to Moderator
 Re: broken studs in reply to Dude, 11-26-2002 11:17:22  
Dude, while there many ways to do it & you will probably get a few different opinions from your query here. I have found, [at lest for me] is to just drill those buggers out & re-tap the hole. ~You can try welding washers or nuts over the broken studs but if that fails [there is always that chance] you will have a hard time finding the center of the broken stud to drill it out straight. You didn't give the year of the "A" so make sure you use a drill stop on the drill bit so you don't drill too deep & damage a pushrod tube [if you have them].
~In years past I fooled around with welding on nuts & washers but half the time I ended up drilling them anyway so now I just drill & get it over with. If you have a good eye & good drill control with a sharp bit they will drill out pretty fast & easy. I usually use a starter drill to start with, then work up to tap size. Use caution when running the tap in, & remove & clear it often as the old bolt chips tend to jamb the tap...

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Mark

11-26-2002 14:23:00




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: broken studs in reply to Clooney, 11-26-2002 14:09:29  
I always weld a washer to the stud, even if it's broke off flush. The weld won't stick to the cast head, and then a nut on top if that. Never failed yet.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy