|
Clooney
11-22-2002 05:52:37
|
|
Re: Re: Re: Crank seals on a 44 B in reply to Wayne Johnson, 11-22-2002 04:52:10
|
|
|
Wayne, the flywheel side requires the removal of the flywheel, flywheel spacer cover & spacer, then renewal of the spacer cork "O" ring & re assembly using a .003" shim stock temporarily between the spacer & the housing to center the housing around the spacer. Then reset the crankshaft end play to .005"-.010". Make sure to line the spacer drive slot up with the flywheel drive pin.
~On the pulley side you could have anything from a loose pulley bushing, to plugged oil drain back holes in the pulley hub, to wear & play between the pulley hub & operating sleeve, to excess main bearing clearance, to improper main bearing shim placement, to excess crankshaft end play, to a plugged dust shield drain hole, to using too thin an engine oil, to excess crankcase pressure due to blow-by [is there smoke coming out of the pulley area? if so you will probably never completely stop the oil leak], to overfilled crankcase, to any combination of the above. ~Probably the best place to start is to re-seal the flywheel side & re-set the crankshaft end play, then change the engine oil to a little heavier oil & run it a while to see if the clutch side is still a problem, if so & you have blow-by [smoke coming out of the clutch area ] you probably won't be able to stop the clutch side oil leak. If there is no blow-by then you should pull the clutch pulley & clean & re-pack the bearing & check all the above for wear. While the pulley is off you can check the R/H main bearing movement & see if the shims are tight to the crank. ~There is no actual oil seal on the pulley side, the oil is mostly kept in by a reverse cut screw thread on the circumference of the operating sleeve & an oil catch lip on the dust shield. If there is a plugged drain hole in the dust shield or too much internal pressure due to blow-by or the oil is too thin it will be hard for that system to keep all the oil in....
|
|
|
