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Cranck/rod measure with plasicgage

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Menno

11-12-2002 00:46:26




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I want to adjust my cranckcase bearings with plasticgages. How must I do this.
How many pl.ga. must I put in ? only one or two 90 degrees different or 4 around?

This is the first time I use this pl.gages so any help is usefull.

Menno from Holland




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Clooney

11-12-2002 02:38:10




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 Re: cranck/rod measure with plasicgage in reply to Menno, 11-12-2002 00:46:26  
Menno, unless the crankshaft & rods are newly machined & pretty close to perfectly round you can get into big trouble using Plasti-Gauge on a 2-cylinder crankshaft.
~Because the crankshafts wear egg shaped on the 2-cylinder Deere tractors & the rod nut access is limited to only certain areas of crank rotation you usually can't get an accurate reading at the tight spot. ~The only time I recommend using Plasti-Gauge on 2-cylinder Deere crankshaft rod bearings is if the crank is newly machined.
~You can use the Plasti-Gauge on the main bearings but will have to measure in 3-4 places to cover the full circumference of the bearing.
~To use the Plasti-Gauge you need to place it across the bearing [not around it] then torque the bearing through bolts to specs, then WITHOUT turning the crank, remove the bearing caps & use the chart on the Plasti-Gauge package to match the width of the gauge to the chart. Then turn the crank about 90� & re-measure again, do this every 90� until you have measured with the crank in at least 3-4 positions. Do this on the top 1/3 of the bearing but not at the seam [if done on the lower 1/2 of the crank, the weight of the crankshaft will make the readings inaccurate.
I personally don't use Plasti-Gauge on a used 2-cylinder crank due to the possibility of inaccurate measurement.

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menno

11-12-2002 02:57:27




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 Re: Re: cranck/rod measure with plasicgage in reply to Clooney, 11-12-2002 02:38:10  
Thanks for the answer ( you are up early)

I think there is a misuntherstanding by across and around.
What I mean is: how many pl.ga do I use in 1 measurement?
1 or 2 in 180� or 4 in 90�.
I think only pro measurement but I,m not sure.
I don't know the specs off JDA torque main bearings, do you?

My crankcase is grinded. When you have a standard bearing, can I fill it up by copper plate on the outside?


Menno

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Clooney

11-12-2002 04:23:28




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 Re: Re: Re: cranck/rod measure with plasicgage in reply to menno, 11-12-2002 02:57:27  
Menno, said, "What I mean is: how many pl.ga do I use in 1 measurement?
1 or 2 in 180� or 4 in 90">>>You can use 2 or 3 at a time but they MUST be ABOVE the center of the crankshaft or the crank weight will give you a false reading. ~If you are using a crankshaft that is turned smaller on the main bearings than stock you really should have the mains re-babbited. If you try to shim the larger bearings with copper [not sure how you would even do that with babbit bearings] you will only have a very small bearing to crankshaft contact area & risk burning a bearing & having oil by-pass the bearing due to large gaps at the non contact areas. If you have a lot of babbit left, & a full shim pack in it now, & the crank wasn't turned down very far, it might be possible to have the mains machined out to match the new crank size & still have enough left for shimming adjustment.

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menno

11-12-2002 07:09:42




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: cranck/rod measure with plasicgage in reply to Clooney, 11-12-2002 04:23:28  
I whant to put a copper plate 0.002 or 0.003" thick between the bearing and the bearinghouse, so nt on the babbit side.

When you do it by removing shimms the bearing gets oval, is this a problem.

Thank you for your coorparation. Information in Holland is hard to get

Menno



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Clooney

11-12-2002 12:53:16




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: cranck/rod measure with plasicgage in reply to menno, 11-12-2002 07:09:42  
Menno, you don't want the bearings to become oval, so just removing shims isn't a good idea on a turned down crankshaft. You can try the shim [I would recommend brass instead of the softer copper] but you should do it with the bearing housing off the tractor, then bolt it together & mic the inside of the bearing bore for being round [or close to it] & about crankshaft diameter. If it isn't round or isn't crankshaft size try changing your added shim size, or add or remove shims between the bearing halves to see if you can get it round & to crank size. If the bearing looks crushed or is still out-of-round you might have to have it bored or honed to size on a mill or honing machine.

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