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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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Head Bolt Studs

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BUDD

12-26-2003 15:46:21




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I have my 49 "A" torn down and there is one stud that will not come out. I do not want to break it. I am soaking it now, short of welding a nut on it does anyone have another idea? Also where can I get all new harden studs at? Mother deere has the originals, but rather high priced I think. I would rather have harden ones if I am buying new.

Thanks for the help BUDD ('';'')




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Stuart

12-28-2003 20:41:22




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 Re: Head Bolt Studs in reply to BUDD, 12-26-2003 15:46:21  
Thats all good advice. another similar way is to heat it up as hot as possible and come back the next morning and it will come out. The wax may not work if there is to much rust or it might, hard to say.



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Duane Larson

12-26-2003 20:14:45




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 Re: Head Bolt Studs in reply to BUDD, 12-26-2003 15:46:21  
Budd,
A suggestion in addition to the good previous posts - if you end up heading the stud red hot, plan ahead and borrow one of the Christmas candles and shave off some candle wax shavings. Clean the intersection of the stud and metal very well, and when the stud is red hot, lay the wax shavings around the stud/metal interface with a tweezer or needle-nose plier. They will melt and flow down along the threads, providing better lubrication than the spray-on lubricants, which tend to vaporize when they hit the hot stud.

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Clooney

12-26-2003 18:34:55




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 Re: Head Bolt Studs in reply to BUDD, 12-26-2003 15:46:21  
Budd, those head studs can be a pain.. If they all came out but one it probably isn't stuck too bad either..

~Every case of a stuck stud has to taken on it's own.. They're not always stuck the same or in the same way..

~If you don't plan on reusing that stud I would start by double nutting it... Then tighten the nuts together [I presume you have already tried that]... If that doesn't work, try turning the stud out with a wrench on the inner nut of the double nut & at the same time put a pipe wrench on the stud close to the block [that will usually will get them out].. If still no luck try heating the block around the stud first & re-trying the above.. If still no luck heat the stud red hot near the block [that will expand it] , then let it cool [that will contract it] , then try the above double nut & pipe wrench again.. If still no luck, try heating the stud again & as it cools apply penetrating oil & at the same time give the nut end of the stud a good couple of strikes with a big hammer, then after it cools try again...

~I always use Lock-Tite 262 when reinstalling those head studs, you don't want them spinning when you remove or re-torque the head nuts. Anything with a slick sealer like Teflon will allow them the chance to work loose at a later time.

~As far as new studs, the replacement Deere studs should be harder than the originals [if they are the dark colored ones].. You might also try Correct Connection to see if they have what you need [you will need to give them the size].. [814-926-2777].

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John T

12-26-2003 17:37:27




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 Re: Head Bolt Studs in reply to BUDD, 12-26-2003 15:46:21  
Budd, I can tell you what has worked for me IFFFFF this is in an area where you can get heat in the area in which the studs threads are embedded. I use 2 nuts jammed together (or a stud puller if theres an area you can get a bite) on the stud so I can get a wrench on it and then I try to heat if possible in the area surrounding where the stud is embedded.

DO NOT get anymore heat on the stud itself than you have to cuz it may get soft and twist off. After heating I use a hammer on the end of the wrench to shock it loose versus a heavy dead pull which might break the stud. Go slowly if she ever breaks loose and milk it in and out in and out slowlyyyyy y. If you get the stud hot, be sure and let it cool before applying torque to avoid twisting her off. Heat (but not on stud itself) and shocking vibrating blows versus a dead pull has worked for me and PB Blaster sure helps prior to getting to the point you need to resort to heat and vibration. However, if the stud is long its possible to bend or break it easily, while a bite closer down to the surface works much better as if you weld a washer and nut (see below)

As you mentioned, I have welded a washer and then a nut to use a wrench also if you cant get a stud puller or 2 jam nuts on her. Welding the washer on first helps keep you from welding to the head or whatever plus provides a good flat surface for weldign the nut to. I use anti sieze lube on the newly replaced studs and if its in a place where youre sealing water, I use teflon sealer. I chase/tap/clean the old holes also and use new hardened studs. If you have to drill and/or tap, dont drill too deep and get into the pushrod tubes if your head uses them.

Good Luck n God Bless

John T

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