JD B Conversion to 12V

Good thought, but many times old 6VDC vintage generators can handle an increase in field and armature levels for doing 12 volts. Us guys who get a kick of a cheap fix working even like to think we'll find a pulley to turn the gen faster, and make it work that way.

When I went thru the pros and cons of converting my red tractor, I figured the least I'd be in for is a new voltage regulator, a dropping or ballast resistor into the coil, and some new light bulbs. Stage two said Murphy's law would have me going to a 12 volt coil and a 12 volt generator, if I could find one, or a rebuilt one as you suggest. After that, I saw stage 3 as going to an alternator, switching from pos to neg ground, a cobbled up alternator mounting bracket and maybe cutting into sheet metal -- might as well throw in an electronic ignition while I was at it.

Seemed to me it was just easier to make 6 volts work like it did when new - and the price came in somewhere between stage 1 and 2 of the conversion. Also seemed to me that the reason for the shift to 12 volts originally was because copper prices spiked farther and faster than lead and acid prices -- so it was/is cheaper to use thin 12 volt copper cables and 3 more cells in the battery than it was to use big cables and 3 fewer cells. Granted, this is on a 4 banger that doesn't have 500 some degrees of no spark, and starts quickly anyway. I'm glad my popper is originally 12 volts. If it were a 6, the decision would surely have been closer. What frosted it for me was when I found that when the old generator's brushes acutally pushed down tight, the thing got charged like it should, and was a really happy camper.

If I had a similar situation with a B, I think my first step would be to see if I could get two six volt batteries in the box - under the seat type should be no problem. Then if my clean up on the existing system didn't make me happy, the new fat cables surely wouldn't hurt anything and I could stick in a 2nd 6 volter to make 12, change the regulator, add a dropping resistor to the coil and probably blow out all the light bulbs 'cause I'd forgotten about them.

Lots of ways to do it; even slow cranking is better than hand cranking -- but even for somebody who's not a stickler for detail, an alternator doesn't look right sitting in an old popper.

Steve

Most 6VDC starters don't have a problem with 12VDC. The oil and temp gauges are direct reading, nothing electric involved. You're going to spend money on the 12VDC generator/alternator, the coil - if you have one, regulator, and even the light bulbs.

Stop to consider what happens to the resale value of your tractor when it's no longer "original".

Most of the problems with 6VDC systems come about because the cables have been replaced with 12 volt cables over the years. They get hard to start with more resistance in thin cables. In my experience you might be way ahead of the game by getting a new set of 2 gauge or larger cables (even good welding cable works) and a new 6 volt battery. The 80 to 100 bucks spent that way keeps your tractor original and requires a lot less work, and expense, than a full 12VDC conversion. I just went through this exercise with a red tractor that followed me home one day. He's a happy 6 volter still, and starts just as well as his 12 volt green brethren sharing barn space.

Steve