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I consider the results on my 50 restoration to be "expo" quality and it was the first restoration I ever undertook. I asked a couple of body shops what they use and then went to the auto paint supply store for the rest of my questions. The key is in the effort you put in BEFORE you spray any color. Cast parts: - scrape and solvent wash all dirt and grease from parts - sandblast (off the tractor with critical openings masked off) or wire wheel on hand grinder - prime - paint Sheet metal: - scrape and solvent wash all dirt and grease from parts - weld patches over unwanted holes - heat and straighten dents - sandblast - body filler to restore the shape/straigthness (sand, sand, sand with long sanding block) - spot putty to fill in the rust pits (sand, sand, sand!) - high-solids primer/surfacer (sand, sand, sand -- down to 600 grit) - color coat with hardener (wet sand to 1500 grit after three days of curing) - 2nd top coat with high ratio of reducer and applied carefully to get gloss without runs. There isn't enough room here to explain it all. I used PPG (Omni) epoxy primer, primer/surfacer, and single stage automotive paint with an HVLP gravity feed gun and was very pleased with the results. The gun and paint cost about $500. This is expensive, but if you are truly seeking an expo-quality job, you're going to have to expend a LOT more elbow grease and spend a little more $ and go with an automotive paint system. That is, if you decide to do it yourself. Many people take it to a body shop and have them do it all. It's up to you and what you want to spend.
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