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Expo Paint Job

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Bill

10-20-2002 10:47:30




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I have heard diffrent people talk about how their tractor has an EXPO Paint job. I was wondering what this is, and what you have to do to do it. What is so special about it, and how much does it increase the value.




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Brad

10-21-2002 12:05:17




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 Re: Expo Paint Job in reply to Bill, 10-20-2002 10:47:30  
I have to agree with John. I would rather be on a tractor that has been mechanically restored and know I am riding a reliable machine than to be able to look a pretty paint job and not have it run right. Alot of tractors have been bought on this site and others off of a halfway decent paint job and everything else be all to peices. I have a 1950 John Deere B and it runs like a top, and if you stand 50ft or even 15ft from it it looks excelent. Get close and it doesnt look so good. But this is a working farm tractor. "Expo" isnt for farm tractors, its for show peices. My two cents. Dont mean to offend

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Bryan

10-21-2002 07:26:51




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 Re: Expo Paint Job in reply to Bill, 10-20-2002 10:47:30  
When I drove my original '46 A home, I was suprised to see all the paint runs in the factory JD paint. I know for a fact that it was the factory paint because I bought it from the original owner - and he didn't repaint ANYTHING.



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John

10-21-2002 06:48:59




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 Re: Expo Paint Job in reply to Bill, 10-20-2002 10:47:30  
If we were fortunate enough to find an original two cylinder still "in the box" would it have an "EXPO" paint job? Or just an honest paint job. I can apreciate the sweat that goes into a hard, glossy, slicker than cow snot finish. But lets be real. The two cylinders on the dealers floors looked nothing quite like that. It seemed to me that the majority of Expo exhibited tractors Ive seen, looked closer to a factory "new" than the superslickshiny repros did. So dont worry about the "paint police"

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BOb K

10-21-2002 06:02:24




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 Re: Expo Paint Job in reply to Bill, 10-20-2002 10:47:30  
I consider the results on my 50 restoration to be "expo" quality and it was the first restoration I ever undertook. I asked a couple of body shops what they use and then went to the auto paint supply store for the rest of my questions. The key is in the effort you put in BEFORE you spray any color.

Cast parts:
- scrape and solvent wash all dirt and grease from parts - sandblast (off the tractor with critical openings masked off) or wire wheel on hand grinder
- prime
- paint

Sheet metal: - scrape and solvent wash all dirt and grease from parts
- weld patches over unwanted holes
- heat and straighten dents
- sandblast - body filler to restore the shape/straigthness (sand, sand, sand with long sanding block)
- spot putty to fill in the rust pits (sand, sand, sand!)
- high-solids primer/surfacer (sand, sand, sand -- down to 600 grit)
- color coat with hardener (wet sand to 1500 grit after three days of curing)
- 2nd top coat with high ratio of reducer and applied carefully to get gloss without runs.

There isn't enough room here to explain it all. I used PPG (Omni) epoxy primer, primer/surfacer, and single stage automotive paint with an HVLP gravity feed gun and was very pleased with the results. The gun and paint cost about $500. This is expensive, but if you are truly seeking an expo-quality job, you're going to have to expend a LOT more elbow grease and spend a little more $ and go with an automotive paint system. That is, if you decide to do it yourself. Many people take it to a body shop and have them do it all. It's up to you and what you want to spend.

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Henry J

10-20-2002 15:33:54




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 Re: Expo Paint Job in reply to Bill, 10-20-2002 10:47:30  
Bill

Some thoughts. If an EXPO paint job is one that is so slick that a fly will slide off the hood, then it is not near like an original. Now if you are painting cast parts, it will be rough any way you cut it, the paint just has to be smooth and no runs. I have painted a bunch of parts on my popper while they were off the tactor and in my opinion they look better than some of the NOS parts I have bought. I don't expose, therefore that coined expression doesn't bother. It does take some experience to make the sheet metal look good. This is where all the correct police sight down the paint and get a good bounce from the sun or lights and then get in a huddle and talk about the paint. I plan to have my sheet metal done by a person with experience that I have seen tractors that he has painted. Details make the big difference like not hosing the paint on the tires, gernerator label, serial number, bird droppings, etc. Just my two centagos. Have Fun!

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Dwayne

10-20-2002 20:08:51




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 Re: Re: Expo Paint Job in reply to Henry J, 10-20-2002 15:33:54  
Becareful, "Expo paint job" is a term that could be used quite loosely. the term is based on opinion and not fact. I have been to many expo's and have seen some tractors that have been painted with a brush, or there is more grease painted over than iron. If they were exibited at an Expo, than wouldn't they have an Expo paint job. alot of tractors have had a "two day restoration", one day to sandblast and the second to paint. I wouldn't put any more value on a tractor that the seller says has an Expo paint job until you can see it for yourself or they can verify that it has been restored by a pro or can document the extent of the restoration with photos. Don't get me wrong, most of the tractors at the expos are very nice, but anyone can say there's has an "Expo paint job"

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to get one you must

10-20-2002 14:16:03




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 Re: Expo Paint Job in reply to Bill, 10-20-2002 10:47:30  
spend a lot of money and pay someone or know what the heck you are doing with the spray gun



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Joe

10-20-2002 11:25:49




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 Re: Expo Paint Job in reply to Bill, 10-20-2002 10:47:30  
Well, to make a long story short, its a perfect paint job, slick as glass and looks like a green mirror.



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Craig

10-20-2002 17:57:55




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 Re: Re: Expo Paint Job in reply to Joe, 10-20-2002 11:25:49  
My description would be one where there are no runs, no overspray on anything, things that are suppose to be red-red, green-green, black-black etc. Paint should be of high quality with a hardener in it or a clear coat. Everything should shine that is suppose to, no dents, no paint over grease, and all fasteners and clamps should be original. And when you chain it down use rags or towels so you don't scratch it. Also don't get on and off it with crappy boots on. In other words treat it like a Corvette.

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