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Governor linkage adjustment

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Mike Whitman

09-05-2002 09:24:56




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I have a 1946 "A" with DLTX-53 caburetor and WICO X magneto. I recently "retro-fitted" a hitch to allow me to use a 6 foot finish mower. This is the first time since buying the tractor, that it's had any kind of load applied. The problem is that it would misfire while heading up a hill and cutting long weeds. I ran the RPM's faster and opened up the load needle until it was 1 1/2 turns open. This seemed to help but, the next day one of the plugs was fuel fouled (dry black residue). I recalled reading about governor rod length adjustment in the service manual (SM-200). I don't really understand how adjusting the length of the goevernor rod is any different than allowing the throttle lever to travel farther forward by adjusting the "stop bolt". Could anyone explain the adjustment process in a little more detail ?

Thanks,
Mike

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Craig-MN

09-08-2002 12:26:37




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 Re: Governor linkage adjustment in reply to Mike Whitman, 09-05-2002 09:24:56  
The purpose of adjusting the rod between the governor arm and the throttle in the carburetor is to syncronize the governor weights with the throttle shaft.



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Clooney

09-05-2002 13:05:25




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 Re: Governor linkage adjustment in reply to Mike Whitman, 09-05-2002 09:24:56  
Mike, explaining how a 2-cylinder Deere governor works will be easy if you already know how it controls the carb.
~When you move the hand throttle lever all you are doing is varying the pressure on the governor lever spring. The governor lever actually moves the carb throttle plate shaft not the hand lever.
~When the hand lever is moved to advance the throttle it applies pressure to the governor arm spring, the spring then tries to open the carb as far as it can by trying to move the governor arm towards wide open throttle, the spinning weights in the governor apply reverse pressure against the governor lever & spring & try to close the throttle plate. When the weight pressure exactly counteracts the spring pressure the throttle will stay at that spot. Now if the engine slows down due to added load, the governor slows down & the internal weights apply less pressure on the spring & the spring wins & advances then opens the throttle plate more, if the engine speeds up due to less load, the internal governor weights win & push the throttle closed against spring pressure. So again; when you move the hand throttle lever towards more throttle all you are doing is increasing the spring pressure that the weights have to push against to try & slow the engine down. ~If the engine isn't running there is NO weight force being exerted on the spring by the governor & the throttle plate will move to wide open throttle with very little hand lever movement & acts as if the hand lever has full control, once started the governor weights begin to spin & governor control starts..

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Mike

09-05-2002 13:31:03




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 Re: Re: Governor linkage adjustment in reply to Clooney, 09-05-2002 13:05:25  
Clooney,

Thanks for the reply. I understand (sort of) the lever/governor/carburetor interplay, it's the adjustment referred to in the service manual that I'm confused about. If I recall correctly the procedure in the service manual is 1. move throttle lever to "wide open position", 2. hold carburetor throttle plate in same (i.e. wide open) position, 3. be sure throttle rod (previously disconnected) falls 1/2 hole short of being able to be inserted into caburetor throttle rod hole. I guess I'm confused on why this needs to be done, and how specifically to do it. I do not have the throttle lever stop bolt installed on the dash, is it imperative that it be there ? How do I adjust it once I install it ? I hope you can straighten me out...
Thanks,
Mike

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Clooney

09-05-2002 18:29:25




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 Re: Re: Re: Governor linkage adjustment in reply to Mike, 09-05-2002 13:31:03  
Mike, you don't need the throttle lever stop installed, all that is required is the throttle hand lever be advanced far enough to keep the governor lever spring from interfering with the governor lever during the adjustment procedure.
~The rod from the governor lever to the carb is set 1/2 hole short so it has just enough travel to move the carb to wide open throttle but not more than it needs. Actually I set the rod about 1 full hole short to allow the governor to have a little reserve. By setting the rod 1/2 to 1 hole short it allows the governor spool to travel far enough in both directions to not bottom out in either idle or wide open positions....

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Mike

09-06-2002 05:38:07




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Governor linkage adjustment in reply to Clooney, 09-05-2002 18:29:25  
Clooney, Your a great help. So, to perform the adjustment, I disconnect the throttle rod, move the throttle lever to a position that allows me to rotate the governor lever, place carburetor in wide open position, rotate the governor lever towards the back of the tractor (clockwise looking from top), and adjust the length of the throttle rod so that it's 1/2 to 1 hole short. If the current adjustment allows carburetor to reach wide opern position, do I need to mess with it ? I also noticed, while looking at it last night, that the governor lever (end where throttle rod connects) does not rest against the end of the governor spring (spring bent?) and that the springs tenson is very weak (compared to my B). Should I just bend the spring back or should I replace.
Thanks again clooney, I read your posts everyday,
Mike

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Clooney

09-06-2002 19:02:07




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Governor linkage adjustment in reply to Mike, 09-06-2002 05:38:07  
Mike, it sounds like you have the adjustment procedure.
~If it works now & reaches WOT you don't "have" to adjust it, but it would be a good idea as the adjustment can effect governor response.
~If the spring is weak or bent it should be replaced as that can also effect response & RPM...



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