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Deere 310 B Hoe

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K Nusbaum

09-05-2002 05:24:17




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Whats the best way to pull the crankshaft pulley? The drive coupling let go and sheared off one of the drive screws. Looks like I have to get the pulley off to replace the screw. Will this affect the seals behind it?




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Jonathan

09-05-2002 13:33:53




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 Re: Deere 310 B Hoe in reply to K Nusbaum, 09-05-2002 05:24:17  
If I remember correctly the pump drive is attached with 2 screws.Aren't they those allen screws with the nylon bushings???.There are four holes in the crank pulley so try using the other two. If that fails let me know...Its pretty easy to get the pulley off...Might want to remove the radiator so you don't get too frustrated



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K Nusbaum

09-06-2002 04:02:32




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 Re: Re: Deere 310 B Hoe in reply to Jonathan, 09-05-2002 13:33:53  
Thanks for the follow up. You got the right setup except that I only have two tapped holes in my pulley. Unfortunately one of the bushing mount screws sheared off so essentially I only have one. I got a wide, short-reach, three arm puller yesterday and hopefully it'll fit in between the hydr. pump housing and the pulley. I didn't want to go that route as it might break the pulley rim, but if the sheared off screw can't be removed (loctite?) I'm looking at another pulley anyway. I had to remove the radiator and take it to a shop as a passing chunk of coupling punched a hole in it!

On this subject. Is there a correct procedure for replacing the coupling? Mine was badly chipped in the ensuing disaster and must be replaced and I was wondering if alignment/torque or any other specifics are critical in refitting the new parts?

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Jonathan

09-06-2002 13:48:35




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 Re: Re: Re: Deere 310 B Hoe in reply to K Nusbaum, 09-06-2002 04:02:32  
before you try the puller, try drilling it if you have a right angle drill...then heat it a little as there should be loctite on the threads.and try a screw extractor..Might be easier that way..If not, remove the bolt and thick washer from inside the pulley and try the puller...install the new bolts with the bushings...they are 3/8 UNC thread I believe so 35 ft/lbs with medium loctite should be ok...With the splined-end clamping bolts loose, install the coupling clamps and tighten first...then tighten the clamping bolts on the pump splines last...so there won't be any stress on the clamp assembly itself. Tighten the coupling clamp bolts evenly 'til the halves touch.
...Before you do all this , make sure the pump turns and isnt seized !!! And that was the cause of the coupling explosion ..

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Keith L. Nusbaum

09-07-2002 04:16:09




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Deere 310 B Hoe in reply to Jonathan, 09-06-2002 13:48:35  
I managed to find a short, 5-7" puller that fit into the gap between the pulley and pump housing. Getting the pump out was a real chore (first time for everything). While out I guess I'm looking at a replacement pump as the shaft seal has been leaking a bit.

On taking the pulley out, the sheared bolt stub came out with a little heat and a patient probing. It appears though that what may have caused the failure in the first place was that during a previous repair job someone drilled a broken bolt out and gouged the top three threads in that tapping. It appears the weakened hole may well have sheared the bolt and begin the sequence of events.

Short of replacing the pulley, do you think Heli-coil or another thread replacement insert would be strong enough the withstand the load on this coupling?

Also now that the pulley is out, how difficult is it to change the crank seal? Is a special tool needed to get it in straight? Mine looks ok but it has obviously been there some time.

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Jonathan

09-08-2002 14:46:26




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Deere 310 B Hoe in reply to Keith L. Nusbaum, 09-07-2002 04:16:09  
The pump shaft probably has a groove worn in it as well as needing a new seal...Those are rebuildable pumps...The front crank seal can be installed with the proper size 3/4 inch drive socket. You can draw the seal in with a bolt and washer through the hole in the socket. A new crank pulley is probably the best bet. I don't believe they are ridiculously expensive and you don't want to go through this again I'm sure. And it probably has a groove worn in it from the crank seal too ...

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K Nusbaum

09-09-2002 06:17:32




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Deere 310 B Hoe in reply to Jonathan, 09-08-2002 14:46:26  
Thanks again, You're right about the crank pulley being grooved, guess I'll add that to the list of new parts to order. I sure don't want to go through this again. My parts book only shows the external double-lipped seal on the engine block, is there another seal inserted further in? I'm looking about this morning for someone to rebuild the hydraulic pump,

You've obviously been into this netherworld before. Do you know of a source for any shop manuals or illustrated repair guides? I "inherited" this machine about five years ago and it has basically run well aside from the burst hose and flat tire but is beginning to show its age. I'd like to keep it going for some time. As I do 99% of the repairs on my stuff it sure would be nice to have some resources. I'm told there are a number of 310s still working. This forum is a great start.

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