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3020 gas with bad block

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Jon Aller

09-04-2002 09:25:40




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What is a good option for a 3020 gas with a dead engine? I think the rest of the tractor is ok, but the only thing salvageable from the engine is the head. Can it be repowered with a 404? If so what has to be changed?

Thank you.




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Mike Aylward

09-05-2002 17:42:11




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 Re: 3020 gas with bad block in reply to Jon Aller, 09-04-2002 09:25:40  
Jon, I ran into the same thing a few years ago with a customer's tractor. We ended up converting it to diesel and he was very pleased with the results. It isn't a huge job but took a little time. The cost was over $4000 by the time we got done. The engine alone (from Colfax) was $3500 and they are not easy to find. Might be just as well to take your lumps and find another tractor, perhaps one with a bad transmission or rear end and join the two. Hope this helps. Mike

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tubba_JD420C_ny

09-04-2002 16:46:35




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 Re: 3020 gas with bad block in reply to Jon Aller, 09-04-2002 09:25:40  
JD70 Jim has a good point, altho if you did put a 4020 engine in the 3020, you would have what amounts to a JD4000, as Beemer and Peterson state in their excellent book "John Deere New generation Tractors". The 4000 was designed to pull lighter implements at a higher speed and this was its selling point . There is an outfit in Indiana that sells Cummins's for use in repowering AGCO and Deere (20, 30, and 40 series) tractors. I dont remember their name but they did advertise in the latest FASTLINE magazine. Good luck, anyway, whatever you do.

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Mr. Thinker

09-04-2002 18:28:30




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 Re: Re: 3020 gas with bad block in reply to tubba_JD420C_ny, 09-04-2002 16:46:35  
Beemer and Peterson don't know what they are talking about--at least concerning 4000's. A 4000 was pretty much an el-cheapo 4020 with 4010 final drives--built on the same assembly line. I've heard the "it's a 3020 with a 4020 engine" story so many times I could just scream. Yes, you CAN repower a 3020 with a 4020 engine, but it will cost more than it will ever be worth--and you'll have a cobbled-up hybrid. It would probably be better to part the 3020 out and buy something else, unless you plan to marry the thing---then a repower makes some sense.

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WTW

09-05-2002 09:16:43




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 Re: Re: Re: 3020 gas with bad block in reply to Mr. Thinker, 09-04-2002 18:28:30  
Mr. Thinker, You are about 99% correct, (No offense). I too run into the same misconception that people seem to know what a 4000 is / was and they are usually far from being correct. A 4000 as you said is nothing more than a stripped down late model 4020. They both use the same parts book and it will show what few differences there actually is. The only comment that you made that isn't correct is: that they used the final drive off a 4010. Not true. The 4000 final drive and axle shaft is unique to the 4000 tractor, was not used on any other tractor than the 4000. Same goes for the 4010 final drive assembly. The 4010 final drive housing is much narrower at the ring gear and can be seen when compared to the 4000. The 4000 final drive ring gear width is the same as the 4020. The 4000 did share the same rear axle (diameter) as the 4010 and the 3020 as well as the later 4030. Many of the cast wheel center were the same part on these tractor models. Again a parts book will confirm all my claims. Dave W.

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Mr. Thinker

09-05-2002 12:06:04




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: 3020 gas with bad block in reply to WTW, 09-05-2002 09:16:43  
You're right---I just didn't want to take the time to type all that!!! :-) Beemer and Peterson's New Generation book is one of the worst pieces of misinformation ever printed by Motorbooks!!! Or I as call them, Misinformationbooks.



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JD70Jim

09-04-2002 15:24:44




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 Re: 3020 gas with bad block in reply to Jon Aller, 09-04-2002 09:25:40  
The 404 is something like 6 inches longer, so you would need the side rails from a 4020, the hood from a 4020, and like;y a whole lot more besides. Also. the 4020 is a bout 1/2 inch taller, the side panels dont fit either. If you want to completely reengineer the tractor from the bell housing forward, including the dash, I would think that using the 6329 engine (from a 2840 or a 4030) or else just find the 4270 (from a diesel 3020). My best guess is that the total cost would excede the price of just parting out the gas 3020 and buying a running, intact 4020 or 3020. At the very least, you'll need several parts books, that is for sure. There have been several cases of this sort of conversion---you can read about one in the MBI book on the NG tractors. It might be more useful to try and shoehorn a B5.9 cummins into it. Good lick!

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