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B Transmission (clooney/Chuck W)

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JD JACK

08-26-2002 18:03:37




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I took little cover off reduction gear cover, can move shaft in and out alittle bit. Tried to move sliding gear shaft up and down and side to side with hand,doesn't move. I hooked tractor back up to disc and pulled until I jumped out. Took top cover off and overdrive shift yoke slide out of detent to left. So input shaft and sliding gear are not meshing together.
Looked at over drive yoke has some large spots worn where shift level pushes onit. Could this possible cause it. Chuck W, you said that (the upper shaft wears in working position which is generaly1/3 gear) is that the overdrive shifter shaft? And get a better condition top shaft. Are you refering to shift shaft or sliding gear shaft? Also went to JD tonight looked at 50 parts manual, the yoke to the late 50 lookes the same as the one in my tractor (part#B2588R yoke in tractor now) the 50 is (part#ab4947r uverdrive shift yoke) is this the one that you are talking about? Or is it 1st 3rd and reverse shift yoke?

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Clooney

08-26-2002 18:33:36




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 Re: B Transmission (clooney/Chuck W) in reply to JD JACK, 08-26-2002 18:03:37  
Jack, that's what I thought you would find. The overdrive lock I was referring to was used on the late 520 & was a dealer retrofit back to the late 50 for under/over drive walk out. [I guess I didn't make that very clear in the first post]
~I've always been able to repair the overdrive pop out without installing the later & hard to find overdrive lock parts.
~First, does the sliding gear shaft drive gear FULLY engage the input shaft when in 3rd gear? If not adjust that first. [also look at the shift fork as those can get bent due to abuse]
~Those worn spots won't normally cause a problem UNLESS the wear is so excessive that the shift lever isn't pushing the overdrive fork to FULL detent [put the cover back on & shift it into 3rd gear, then pull the cover & see if the overdrive is in full engagement & the detent is seated in the notch if so your problem isn't the worn spots].
~How hard is it to hand unseat the detent when the overdrive is fully engaged? If too easy, try more detent spring pressure or grinding the notch a little deeper & maybe a new pawl [especially if the original is worn where it engages the notch].
~One last thought; reach in & see if the sliding gear shaft drive gear is loose & can be wobbled on the sliding gear shaft splines, if so you might need a tighter gear [if it wobbles under load it can walk out of engagement].
~In most cases [if everything else is fairly good] I can stop the overdrive pop out by increasing the detent spring pressure on the overdrive shifter & if the overdrive shift rail detent notch is worn on the sides of the notch, grinding the notch a little deeper with less taper on the sides, [don't over do it or you will have a hard time shifting it through the overdrive gate].

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JD JACK

08-26-2002 19:11:23




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 Re: Re: B Transmission (clooney/Chuck W) in reply to Clooney, 08-26-2002 18:33:36  
Clooney, yes it does shift into 3rd gear with cover on, need to use small pry bar to get overdrive fork to move, but not with alot of force. Did really try by hand. The manual said to adjust 80% teeth contact between sliding gear and input gear. Maybe I should have adjusted it closer. I will take cover back off tomorrow night and check wobble of gear and hand pressure on detent release. Do I have to take all the shidt forks out to get the overdrive fork out?

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Clooney

08-27-2002 03:46:28




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 Re: Re: Re: B Transmission (clooney/Chuck W) in reply to JD JACK, 08-26-2002 19:11:23  
Jack, that 80% gear engagement is fine for new gears & forks but if you set it at 80%, the fork wear, sloppy detent, some lateral shaft movement, some gear wobble & worn teeth will let it move to even less engagement under load. I unusually set the engagement to have the gears almost touch when engaged with no load [just don't set it so close that the fork is loading the gear slot all the time, as that will wear the fork].
~After setting the high range gear engagment, move it to 1st or other low range gear to make sure you have good gear engagement to the idler gear in low range. If not you will have to split the difference

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ChuckW

08-26-2002 18:14:23




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 Re: B Transmission (clooney/Chuck W) in reply to JD JACK, 08-26-2002 18:03:37  
there is an adjustment bolt on the outside of the case, there is a clearance and I can't say the right amount, need to check service manual, when the underdrive shifts over this is set to allow as much contact as possible. This is hard to explain, could show you in a heartbeat. If the yoke has a lot of wear it would allow considerable drift. You can put some washers under the springs holding detents, also if you shaft grooves are worn is a problem. Hope this helps some. Wish the tractor and you were here, I'd show you the details.

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JD JACK

08-26-2002 19:17:17




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 Re: Re: B Transmission (clooney/Chuck W) in reply to ChuckW, 08-26-2002 18:14:23  
Chuck, I sure wish the tractor was there too. Where is the adjustment bolt? Is it under the cover behind the flywheel? I know I didn't adjust the sliding gear 100% to drive gear, book said 80%. Should I adjust it tighter and put washers under spring and file detent deeper?



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Chuck Westerfield

08-27-2002 04:45:05




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 Re: Re: Re: B Transmission (clooney/Chuck W) in reply to JD JACK, 08-26-2002 19:17:17  
JD Jack, sounds like you're getting a little discusted, hang in there....remember it's a hobby. Let me tell you how I restore the transmission and we'll go from here. First I pull the reduction gear side cover, flywheel, 4/6 small metal cover. Shifter. Then you can pull the rails and shifters. Then I pull the upper shaft and gears. Generally(real important) the lower shaft has wear and it will be dropped down. You should know if runs on tapered bearing. I then check and see if reshimming will take out the play. If it doesn't I replace the shaft bearings. If this shaft bearing are worn then the gears are thrown out of mesh. Get this all up in shape. Then I check all the gears for chips and wear. If the upper shaft has a lot of wear(especially where I/3 drive gear runs I try to find a replacement. If you look close you can see the wear or burr area around the shaft and it will have an ever so slight taper wear. In the past I've located the locking shifters, both the underdrive and 1/3. A 520/530 setup will interchange. The only difference is the shafts use a larger locker bolt on the side. I adjust per IT manual or a good way to adjust is to line up all the shifter with the 4/6 position. Those lockers will solve that jumping out problem. I believe you can find some of those. What Deere was telling me with the lockers that there was a major problem with the transmission when it go some wear. Probably the same that you are encountered. I've put in 5/6 of these and have had transmission in hard pull, pulling sled and have had no problem. Like I say, wish I could see you transmission but I'm giving you my best advise. By the way look at the 730 diesal I am auctioning on ebay. I rebuilt the transmission on this monster. What a job.

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