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Drilling manifold bolts

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Stan

08-05-2002 11:34:26




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I have about had it with tring to get the bolts out of my 55' 60 manifold. I am going to cut the heads off and lift manifold. After that, I will hacksaw off the bolt and then drill it out. I am aware about going too far and into the tubes. However, what are some good tips about drilling out. Should I use a somewhat smaller drill bit compared to bolt size? Also what are some points about using taps and some comon mistakes? Any comments will be appreciated

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Stan

08-06-2002 07:52:34




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 Re: Drilling manifold bolts in reply to Stan, 08-05-2002 11:34:26  
Thanks for the ideas and comments.



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Heat Houser

08-05-2002 22:14:32




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 Re: Drilling manifold bolts in reply to Stan, 08-05-2002 11:34:26  
I have used two methods to remove bolts that have broken off flush with the head. Method 1 is to select a washer with its ID (hole) slightly larger than the bolt. Center the hole on the bolt and then stick weld it to the end of the bolt. Next select a nut, weld it on the inside making sure to catch the washer and the bolt. A couple of small tack welds between the nut and the washer on the outside will help. While still hot from welding, give it a good quench with water. Usually they will then come out using a wrench to turn the nut.
Method 2 is to drill a pilot hole into the bolt and then use a carbide cutter chucked into a drill to enlarge the hole down to the tips of the threads. After you are down to the thread tips, use a tap to clean out the remaining helix of old bolt threads. You will need a good light to see the point where you start to get into the threads and nerves of steel to hold the drill steady.
Stay out of the bars the night before and get a good nights sleep.
Good luck.

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Shoe

08-05-2002 20:54:14




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 Re: Drilling manifold bolts in reply to Stan, 08-05-2002 11:34:26  
I've run in to the same problem as your having several times. What has always worked for me is to
drill the stud with a slightly undersized left
hand drill bit. Normally by drilling the stud approx, 1/16th under the bit will relieve the pressure in the hole and the bit will spin the stud out. It's worked for me several times. You
may need to tape the hole afterwards, but no big
deal. Might give it a try.

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Paul from MI

08-05-2002 20:13:41




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 Re: Drilling manifold bolts in reply to Stan, 08-05-2002 11:34:26  
The trick to drilling out broken bolts is to get the drill precisely aligned with the existing tapped hole. Some times you can clamp the two parts together and use a transfer punch to make a punch mark in the center of the remaining piece of the stud or use a drill the will just fit the bolt hole in the manifold to "spot " the broken piece of stud. Easy outs are NOT. They are hard steel and will break off more often than not. I never use them. I can usually drill out a broken bolt close enough to center to re-tap it and get good enough threads to hold by just being very careful. of course you need to start off with a drill a couple of sizes smaller than a normal tap drill and work up. If you are careful and do a good job of aligning the drill with the old hole you will push a spiral of thread ahead of the tap when you finish and end up with a re-tapped hole that has plenty of thread to hold.

Good luck,
Paul

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Mike Aylward

08-05-2002 14:42:33




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 Re: Drilling manifold bolts in reply to Stan, 08-05-2002 11:34:26  
Stan, here is the method I use and it has served me well over the years. First, lift your manifold off of the head trying to leave 1/2" to 3/4" of bolt sticking up from the head. Next, heat JUST THE BOLT then let it cool to the touch on it's own. After this, heat the bolt AND the area around it and while everything is hot take an ice cube and cool the bolt off quickly (use gloves to protect your hands from the steam). After this the bolt should come right out and often you can do it with your fingers. If it doesn't come out easily you may have to repeat the process but usually one "dose" will do it. After the ice cube a little penetrating oil will help, too. Don't get the ice cube on the head- try to cool the bolt only. If you cool everything at once you haven't gained anything from the rapid shrinking of the bolt and will have to repeat. It sounds a little screwy but I have taken out dozens of studs and bolts this way. Hope this helps. Mike

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JMS/MN

08-06-2002 22:11:05




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 Re: Re: Drilling manifold bolts in reply to Mike Aylward, 08-05-2002 14:42:33  
Another option with heat is to use wax- hold a candle to the bolt and let the wax melt into the threads. After cooling- try the wrench.



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rollo

08-05-2002 14:16:31




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 Re: Drilling manifold bolts in reply to Stan, 08-05-2002 11:34:26  
Don't drill out the studs until you have tried and failed at what either of these guys are recommending. Don't try an E-Z out. They break off in the stud and you can never drill them out - they're hardened steel. Heat, penetrating oil, and gentle persuasion usually works. There is no foolproof way to drill out a stud unless you are willing to go up one bolt size on the retap.



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ChuckW

08-05-2002 12:36:11




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 Re: Drilling manifold bolts in reply to Stan, 08-05-2002 11:34:26  
I've had good luck like Bob K says, have found a new pair of vice grips and a hard lock on the stud. Then lightly tap the stuck and work back and forth. If you use heat at the head let it cool good or it will weaken the bolt and will break off. Personally I believe that the rusting of the bolt though the manifold if what keeps them from backing off, not necessary frozen in the head. Also don't get impatient. I have drilled out but it is next to impossible to get as good a thread as original.

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Bob K - don't drill yet!

08-05-2002 12:23:41




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 Re: Drilling manifold bolts in reply to Stan, 08-05-2002 11:34:26  
When I replaced the manifolds on my 50, I knew I wouldn't be able to turn the bolts out because they were so rusted away. I cut the bolt heads off with the torch and lifted off the manifold. Then I had a nice long shank to heat and twist so I could get them out of the head without breaking anything.

It took about three hours of heating the shanks and letting them air cool (3 or 4 times) as I sprayed WD-40 around the threads. I then tapped the top of the shank with my 8 oz. ball peen hammer while applying a light twisting motion with a small pipe wrench. The tapping creates shock waves around the threads in the head and the twisting of the wrench tells the shank which way to go. After you hear the telltale 'tick' of the threads breaking free between the bolt and the head, work it back and forth to free it up in the direction of removal (like chasing threads with a tap). A couple of the bolts were corroded half away, but I was able to get them out without breaking any of them. They are nailed to the wall of my shop as a reminder to work slow and easy on rusted/siezed parts.

DON'T GET IN TOO MUCH OF A HURRY! The time you spend working them out slowly is shorter (and better) than the time (and trouble) of having to drill out a twisted-off bolt and re-tapping. Good luck.

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