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Clooney
07-30-2002 19:06:20
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Re: D Rear Axle Oil Seals in reply to Ryan, 07-30-2002 17:38:32
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Ryan, to get the axle housings off you will have to pull the nuts off the chain sprockets inside the main case. Replacing the inner axle seals won't stop the leak at the case to axle housings though. ~You are correct, there isn't any gaskets between the quill & main case & they do leak if not put together perfect & even then will seep a little.
~If you want a leak free joint I have a way of doing that.. First, remove the trans top cover & loosen the axle housing retaining bolts, then turn the axle housing in the direction of the arrow until the drive chain has about 1" of chain vertical movement, then tighten a few bolts & turn the axle to about 4-5 different places & make sure the chain doesn't get any tighter than 1" movement at any place [if a tight spot is found set the 1" of chain movement at that location], then [important] mark the axle housing to main case with a scribe mark or punch marks so it can be put back in the EXACT same location. ~After the chains are adjusted & the housings are marked, remove the retaining cotter pins [big suckers] & pull the big nuts off the axle shafts that hold the chain sprockets on [a pipe wrench works good] then you can either leave the sprockets in place & pull the axle housings with axles, or remove the master link & open the chain & pull the gears out [NOTE: keep ALL parts in order & on the same side so the chain adjustment doesn't change]
~After the axle housings are off, the axle shafts can be removed by driving outward with a lead hammer or block of hard wood & at that time new seals, felts, & bearing can be installed if needed. ~Clean the oil & grease form all the parts including the main case & housings & keep the parts free of oil when re-assembling.
~When re-assembling, hand pack the outer bearings & grease the felts, then install the axles in the housings & tap the inner bearings in place [don't nick the inner oil seal], place a light bead of sealer [I use #3 permatex] on the axle quill to case area & install the bottom quill clamps & bolts [they are hard to install after the quill is installed if the gears are still in] , now here is the part you will have to decide on,,,, those lower clamps & bolts are sealed by soft washer seals called "VELLUM" washers & they are to prevent leaks, you will find that those things are VERY expensive & it takes many to seal the clamps. I personally refuse to pay that kind of money for those washers & make my own seals from G.M. transmission dipstick rubber seals by cutting to size to fit between the axle quill & clamp [I also install a seal on each bolt, not just the lowers like production]. I have also heard of using water pump packing wound around the bolts to seal the clamps to quills, [I haven't tried that so can't say if it holds up for long]. Use sealer on the bolts where they come through the quills & use sealer between the seals & bolts & you should already have sealer on the quill to case mating surface. Then reinstall the quills & line the scribe marks up [that is why you did the chain adjustment first], then install the remaining bolts & clamps using seals if you want to [I do] & put a little sealer on the bolts, then install the washers, nuts & tighten the nuts. ~I only put 5 gallons of gear oil in as that is all that is needed unless you are going to pull a load on a severe side hill & the lower level sure helps keep the leaks away. ~I have done a few D's with the above procedure & have had absolutely no leaks when done & some are going on 10+ years. The only problem with this method is the sealer will make chain adjustment difficult at a later time but without hard prolonged usage the chains won't need adjustment..... .
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