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6 volt vs. 12 volt

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Kevin

07-26-2002 18:14:53




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I have a 720 pony start. It had been wired with a 12 volt battery. It had a ballest resister in line going to pony coils. I still read 12 volts going past with volt meter. I changed back to 6 volt. Had starter checked over...said was ok.
But now starter seems to drag and won't start. Can you go to 12 volt without burning the points up?

Thanks




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Craig

07-26-2002 22:34:34




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 Re: 6 volt vs. 12 volt in reply to Kevin , 07-26-2002 18:14:53  
If your starter drags then it may need new bushings and a rebuild. 12 volts may cover up the fact the 6v starter needs some repair.



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Clooney

07-26-2002 19:55:36




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 Re: 6 volt vs. 12 volt in reply to Kevin , 07-26-2002 18:14:53  
Kevin, unless the points were closed when you measured the voltage you will show battery voltage. [a ballast resistor needs a load to resist, open circuit will show input voltage minus the resisted meter load which won't be much]
~As Frank said, your best bet if you want to operate on 12 volts is a solid state regulator. [or use 12 volt car coils]
~If you can get it to crank on 6 volts that would be your safest approach, those pony coils are expensive & won't last long at all if run at higher voltage.
~Put your volt meter on the pony motor starter post & see what the cranking voltage is, if below 4.5 volts you have a starter problem or high resistance in the battery cables, ground or solenoid.....

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F-I-T

07-26-2002 18:35:02




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 Re: 6 volt vs. 12 volt in reply to Kevin , 07-26-2002 18:14:53  
Kevin:

Check the ground. On my 70D (6 volt), the starter turned slow at first after engine overhaul, but good on 12 volts. Cleaned ground cable on both ends, and it turned over like new.

The actual voltage to the pony coils after the switch mounted resistor is around 4 v, so it would take an appropriate resistor to drop to that voltage. On top of that, to be correct, the voltage should bypass from the starter switch during cranking so that the coils see full battery voltage while the starter is dragging the voltage down, until the foot switch is released.

Then if you used a dropping resistor to get from 12 volts to 4v, those wire wound resistors can change their resistance a great deal as they get warm and then hot.

You'll run a big chance of burning out coils if you try to run it on 12 volts, unless you can get a dependable regulated voltage like through a solid state voltage regulator (like a LM309K in a TO3 case). That way you could feed it's fixed output of 5v to the distributor all the time. That might work.

Then you have to bump the generator to put out 13-14v or so. If you don't have an auxilliary equipment power requirement calling for 12 volts, I think you'll have an easier time getting the pony starter to work than to work with a 12 volt system.

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855

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Kevin

07-26-2002 19:01:45




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 Re: Re: 6 volt vs. 12 volt in reply to F-I-T, 07-26-2002 18:35:02  
I noticed my switch mounted resisted was red hot while trying to start. Any idea?
I am using 6 volts now



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F-I-T

07-27-2002 09:52:44




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 Re: Re: Re: 6 volt vs. 12 volt in reply to Kevin , 07-26-2002 19:01:45  
Kevin:

Those resistors get pretty hot even when they're working correctly.

Another thing on your starter would be to maybe pull the armature out and have the commutator turned if it's groovy, and then cut out the insulation in the slots. You can really pick up efficiency on those 6 volters if you really make tight clean connections, and that goes for the brushes on the armature. 6V just doesn't tolerate dirt, paint, and greasy moisture.

Later !

Frank

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