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720 blowin' oil clooney help!

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david

07-25-2002 09:37:18




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my 720 LP started blowing oil out the exhaust while mowing heavy grass and as you thought the #1 plug had quit firing. Changed plugs and she ran about 30 minutes and started it again. Thinking broken oil ring,I pulled her down only to find NO broken rings no scared cylinder,no scored piston. Breather tube is clear and the oil return is open. I noticed the intake valves had only one of the metal seals or cover on them. The one thats blowing oil did have the cover on it.The rings aren't stuck and the pistons are clean.Put the #6 ring in the cylinder to check end gap and found .075 clearance. My manual gives only side clearance but not end gap.Oil bath filter is clean and filled to proper level with 30wt engine oil. She ran like a top last year but shes a little ill this year.Any help would be greatly appreicated. Thanks, David

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DON

07-25-2002 13:33:16




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 Re: 720 blowin' oil clooney help! in reply to david, 07-25-2002 09:37:18  
David check the oil pressure fuel shut off. if you blew a diaphram you could pump oil into the gas. This will make a lot of smoke and maybe fowling the plugs if not working hard. Don



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ChuckW

07-25-2002 11:38:28




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 Re: 720 blowin' oil clooney help! in reply to david, 07-25-2002 09:37:18  
I sold a B to a friend some years ago....I have overhauled and it ran excellent. Anyway in the spring he went to use it, said was smoking etc, like a big problem. I told him couldn't be, come to find out dirt dobbers had built nest in intake. He was ready for tear down, etc for a minor problem. It would appear to me if you had a restriction the suction would pull oil by your rings much like a worn engine when you go down hill with throttle closed. The throttles on these engines are constantly moving. Check for restriction.

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Clooney

07-25-2002 11:27:28




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 Re: 720 blowin' oil clooney help! in reply to david, 07-25-2002 09:37:18  
David, .075" is a lot of ring gap, [BUT] if you took it at the max wear area at the top it doesn't mean much unless you are using it to try to figure cylinder wear.
~The spec [well a good one to use anyhow] for everything new is .004" per inch of cylinder diameter. ~You really should measure the ring end gap at the tightest place in the bore [usually the bottom] as you can't run them any tighter than that anyhow.
~The thing you need to figure out is did that cylinder quit firing first then spit oil because it wasn�t firing OR did it get oil logged first then quit firing�.Did it smoke after you changed the plug or did it quit smoking then start again after the misfire started?
~If you can�t account for the oil entering the cylinder through the rings, piston or valves, look in the intake to see if it came through the vent pump & vent tube & then through the intake [should have gone to both cylinders but you never know].
~Because of the wear in the L/H cylinder about all you can do is compare all the parts to the side that didn�t burn oil.
~Look at the oil return in the rocker area to see if it is plugged up, if the oil couldn�t return & got high enough it will enter through the intake valve guide on the intake stroke. While you are there check the valve guide wear. ~I�m not all that familiar with the LP tractor but don�t think oil can get in through the converter or intake area.
~Make sure the heat valve in the exhaust manifold is EXACTLY at hot or cold & not in between, that will cause a very poor running L/H cylinder [if you have one?]
~Oops, almost forgot an important one; make sure the air cleaner & intake snorkle isn't plugged up to cause it to suck oil from the vent system. Also make sure your oil cup isn't full of water or too much oil. [if too much oil in the cup & you didn't put it there, suspect the vent pump] mafunction....

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