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Connnecting rods, block, and gasket question.

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snowmantn

06-26-2002 07:11:11




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I have a late model A that I am about to put together. It has model 60 rods with inserts and I was wondering the touque for these rods. The block was cracked pretty bad in both cylinders so I had block repaired with new sleeves put in and rebored to .045". I was curious if anyone else has had this type of work and what was the cost. Mine was around $600, this included stud removal and putting them back which I was told had to be done to bore the cylinders. I think only one broke. I also had a question about the best method for a leakfree block-to-maincase procedure. I want to do this right the first time. Thanks!

snowmantn

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Wind

06-27-2002 09:24:28




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 Re: Connnecting rods, block, and gasket question. in reply to snowmantn, 06-26-2002 07:11:11  
Snowman, I had the block for my '35 B bored out .045, a crack repaired on the block, a crack repaired on the head, new valve inserts and repaired guides and both surfaces decked for $750. Had it done in Davenport IA.



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ChuckW

06-27-2002 05:13:43




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 Re: Connnecting rods, block, and gasket question. in reply to snowmantn, 06-26-2002 07:11:11  
I have found that worn blocks work better than freshly bored. Give 6/7 thousand clearance the pistons will move more freely. If you are going with aluminum versus cast be sure your machine shop allows more clearance as aluminum will expand at faster rate. All my rebuilds I stay with the orginal pistons. Good luck on your project.



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G-MAN

06-27-2002 13:40:11




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 Re: Re: Connnecting rods, block, and gasket question. in reply to ChuckW, 06-27-2002 05:13:43  
Chuck, I'm not trying to be smart here, so don't take it that way, but I have a couple questions.
You stated that you use the original pistons in all your rebuilds. How can you really call that a rebuild? That would seem more like a simple ring job to me. I understand that the pistons may move more freely in the worn bores, but what about the taper and out-of-round conditions that are present in all worn cylinders? Any competent machine shop can easily bore and finish-hone a cylinder to create the proper clearances for aluminum pistons. I guess I don't understand how you can achieve .006" to .007" piston clearance in a well-worn engine, as new specs range from 4-7 thousandths on a B to 6-10 thousandths on a D. It would seem to me that it would be pretty hard to keep factory clearances considering the wear in the bores and on the pistons. I can understand staying with the original style pistons for smooth operation, etc but I think I would try to find a set of oversize cast pistons and bore the cylinders. Boring is the only way to re-establish proper piston clearance and cylinder dimensions, unless you get into knurling the pistons, which probably isn't possible with cast-iron units. It just seems to me that if you're going to the time and trouble to remove the block (and maybe you don't), that it would be well worth it to have the cylinders bored and get everything back the way it was intended. I'm always looking to learn new things, so please fill me in on some more details of your rebuilds.

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Will P

06-26-2002 20:01:13




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 Re: Connnecting rods, block, and gasket question. in reply to snowmantn, 06-26-2002 07:11:11  
I was quoted $400 a hole for my early styled A block. I got another block. Got it a lot cheaper than what they wanted for one hole.

Will P



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Tractorboy

06-26-2002 17:23:33




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 Re: Connnecting rods, block, and gasket question. in reply to snowmantn, 06-26-2002 07:11:11  
Well, I have one that I had a sleeve put in and it was 300.00 so u r in the ballpark as they dont do these old ones cheap. It dont leak a drop and runs good . If I had went with another block I would have had to go all the way with the motor ovehaul but by sleeving it I used the old Rings and it worked out real well for me.



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G-MAN

06-26-2002 07:33:22




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 Re: Connnecting rods, block, and gasket question. in reply to snowmantn, 06-26-2002 07:11:11  
Torque on the connecting rod hardware should be 100 ft lbs. Bearing clearance should be .001" to .004". I would use the regular gasket between the block and the main case - if it was good enough from the factory, it should be good enough now. Just make sure to properly torque the hardware holding the block in. I would have thought that you could have found a good used block and had it bored .045" over for less than $600, considering how many As are out there. You said your tractor was a late A. What year? I have read that the '47 to '49 blocks are getting a little hard to find, due to a lot of them cracking when improperly torqued to the main case. $600 sounds a little expensive just to get a block repaired - but the sleeves were probably pretty expensive, too.

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snowmantn

06-26-2002 21:57:11




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 Re: Re: Connnecting rods, block, and gasket question. in reply to G-MAN, 06-26-2002 07:33:22  

Hi G-Man, thanks for the torques, is ther any special procedure for applying the gasket. My tractor is a 1951 model (serial # 671115). I live in west Tennessee and used parts are pretty hard to find in these parts. The ones I called and found were a little far and most had been or would have to be bored .090". They were also asking in the range of $750 and up plus shipping or my gas money. I also would have to change pistons. I was also skeptical about buying a used block sight-unseen because this tractor has already burned me a little from that way of shopping. I really shouldn't say that because I am still happy. The tractor is in as good and original shape as I have ever seen one. It would be next to impossible to find a tractor in its condition (except for block course) in my neck of the woods. I will try to get a picture up when it is in one piece and popping. Thanks everyone!

snowmantn

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G-MAN

06-27-2002 05:54:21




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 Re: Re: Re: Connnecting rods, block, and gasket question. in reply to snowmantn, 06-26-2002 21:57:11  
When reinstalling the block in my G the first time, I just cleaned up the mating surfaces real well and used spray high-tack to kind of stick the gasket in place - seemed to work pretty well.



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