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50 problem

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David Ransom

06-19-2002 13:57:10




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The flywheel now turns without too much trouble, moving the block forward and back. The problem is, the flywheel only turns a very short distance, only moving the block a very short distance. Where is the problem most likely to be, and what can I do about it? My father thought it might be the governor, and he an I tried to take the cover off the left side of the governor, but it is stuck on.




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Tractorboy

06-20-2002 15:08:24




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 Re: 50 problem in reply to David Ransom, 06-19-2002 13:57:10  
Take the oil pump Gears off from the bottom as they have to be cleaned up anyway , then you wont break the shaft that drives the pump .



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Jerry S

06-20-2002 12:26:56




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 Re: 50 problem in reply to David Ransom, 06-19-2002 13:57:10  
I had the exact same problem after my block was totally out of my A. Found out that the oil pump gear that connects to the camshaft had rusted tight. I would suggest taking governor and fan off as a unit then taking the cam follower piece off and perhaps the oil pump out the bottom. You do not want to break off the gear for the oil pump. Besides, as rusty as it looked, you might want to have the cam followers machined smooth.

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nigelB

06-20-2002 09:45:22




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 Re: 50 problem in reply to David Ransom, 06-19-2002 13:57:10  
Probebly entered into your dilemer at a late stage and missed it ,but you havent left the oil line connected to the block from the pump? nigelB



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David Ransom

06-20-2002 08:59:35




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 Re: 50 problem in reply to David Ransom, 06-19-2002 13:57:10  
No, I did't have it in gear, and I dit get the clutch unstuck. I tried with the PTO lever in each position (left seems to be PTO disengaged). I am trying to turn it backwards, away from the left connecting rod and pushing the block with the right one.



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Kerry

06-20-2002 19:49:13




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 Re: Re: 50 problem in reply to David Ransom, 06-20-2002 08:59:35  
David,

The PTO is ENGAGED if you push it to the left. To the right is disengaged.

Hang in there, I just mowed a couple of acres with my 50LP yesterday, it beats using the little 8n any day.

But then, I mowed a couple of acres today with my father's Long 2610 and 8ft shredder, it puts my 50 to shame. It should, it cost 10x as much and is 40 yrs newer!

Kerry


Kerry



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Bob

06-20-2002 06:29:27




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 Re: 50 problem in reply to David Ransom, 06-19-2002 13:57:10  
You don't have it in gear, do you? Even if the clutch is disengaged, with the amout of time the tractor has been sitting it's probably stuck, and having the tractor in gear would certainly do this. Sometimes the obvious is overlooked....



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Larry W.

06-20-2002 05:40:26




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 Re: 50 problem in reply to David Ransom, 06-19-2002 13:57:10  
On the rod that you have disconnected, you are going to have to get it off the crankshaft before you can rotate enough to disconnect the other one. Try going backwards until you can get the other rod off the crank. Then maybe yo can rotate enough to disconnect the other rod.



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David Ransom - reply and question

06-19-2002 19:09:55




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 Re: 50 problem in reply to David Ransom, 06-19-2002 13:57:10  
I thought I could turn the crankshaft moving the block along with the right piston. The right connecting rod cap is not very accessible. How do you remove a right connecting rod cap when it is the crank is pointing straight down or a little ahead of straight down? A socket wrench doesn't seem to fit.



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tractorboy

06-19-2002 17:45:42




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 Re: 50 problem in reply to David Ransom, 06-19-2002 13:57:10  
it may be the oil pump gears are full of rust and are binding .



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tractorboy

06-19-2002 17:32:47




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 Re: 50 problem in reply to David Ransom, 06-19-2002 13:57:10  
You got to take the other rod loose all the way unbolt the block and take the block out all the way then u can turn the shaft .



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G-MAN

06-19-2002 14:07:35




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 Re: 50 problem in reply to David Ransom, 06-19-2002 13:57:10  
If the crankshaft is free and you have both rod caps off, you should be able to work the block/pistons/rods away from the crank/main case.
You don't want to take the end cap off the governor - and I don't think the governor is your problem, anyway. Does the fan shaft turn at all as you move the flywheel? If it does, the governor is not locked up. If you're going to do anything with the governor, leave it in one piece and remove it the way the service manual tells you to. Make sure one of your rods is not hitting the cam or the top of the main case as you're trying to slide the block out. Rotate the crank as far as you can and try to listen to hear what is hitting what. You might have to get a prybar between the block and case and try working it away some more - it could be hanging up on the studs, etc.

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David Ransom - after more investigation

06-19-2002 15:14:16




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 Re: Re: 50 problem in reply to G-MAN, 06-19-2002 14:07:35  
I don't think the block is the source of the problem. There is enough space around each stud that I can pick the block up a little, and it seems to me that it would move if something else wasn't stuck, but I could be wrong. I can't hear any sound when the flywheel stops turning except sometimes the chain used to hold the crow bar to the flywheel to turn it.



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David Ransom - I forgot to mention

06-19-2002 15:30:06




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 Re: Re: Re: 50 problem in reply to David Ransom - after more investigation, 06-19-2002 15:14:16  
The connecting rods didn't appear to be hitting anything, but they might have been hitting something farther forward than I could reach.



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G-MAN

06-19-2002 17:28:35




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: 50 problem in reply to David Ransom - I forgot to mention, 06-19-2002 15:30:06  
If the RH rod is still connected to the crankshaft, that's your problem - you will have to have both of them unhooked to get the block to slide away - because the pistons are stuck in the block and the rods are connected to the pistons. Pull the RH rod cap and you should be able to remove the block.



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David Ransom

06-19-2002 14:21:45




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 Re: Re: 50 problem in reply to G-MAN, 06-19-2002 14:07:35  
The right connecting rod is still attached to the crankshaft. The left connecting rod is not. The fan shaft turns. I don't think the left rod is hitting the top of the case. Could the right one be hitting the bottom of the case? I would have put a prybar between the block and the case, but my father said that would crack the block. Could it?



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Walt in Jaxn, Tn.

06-19-2002 20:39:09




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 Re: Re: Re: 50 problem in reply to David Ransom, 06-19-2002 14:21:45  
David if you can get the crankshaft to move enough to remove the right connecting rod cap, then the block will come off. i'd keep the cap and rod bolts together in a safe place till you get the block off then put the caps back on their respective rods finger tightened nuts on bolts. as much rust as i saw in the picture of the crankcase, i'd say the rods are stiff on the rist pins in the pistons. anyway try to make the rods level so they will not be in the way when you slide the block out. you're probably fighting crud between the block and frame and that will make removing the block difficult also. lift up on the front of the block where the head attached with a prybar between the block and frame and see if that helps ease the block forward. work a crobar between the block and crankcase at the same time you lift up on the front of the block. don't try to rotate the crankshaft to much yet, just enough to get the block off, then later use a mirror and light to see how much rust is on the crankshaft and cam gears. at that time i'd get a garden sprayer and put some diesel in it and spray the inside of the crankcase especially around the cam and main bearings then work the flywheel back and forth till it goes all the way around easy. check for rust and stain and pitting on the crankshaft where rods attached, tell us what you find----- Walt

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