Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Discussion Forum
:

4020D, coolant blowing out crankcase vent.

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Tim(nj)

05-22-2002 21:24:47




Report to Moderator

Just recently I've been getting a very small amount of coolant into the oil (I change oil at 50 hour intervals). The crankcase ventilator tends to pick some coolant up and blow it out the vent pipe, that's how I first noticed it. I know I'm hoping for too much, but what in a 404 engine besides a cavitated sleeve or leaking head gasket could allow coolant into the crankcase?
What's an overhaul go for these days on a 404?
I guess parts are around $950 (not including crankshaft). Anybody have a sleeve puller?

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
G-MAN

05-23-2002 10:28:26




Report to Moderator
 Re: 4020D, coolant blowing out crankcase vent. in reply to Tim(nj), 05-22-2002 21:24:47  
Tim, I wanted to add something about the sleeve puller. You can make one fairly easily. All you need is a long piece of threaded rod - 5/8 will work fine, a disk of some sort approximately the same size as the sleeve at the bottom (it doesn't need to be smaller because you shouldn't need to pull the liners up that far before they free up), an H-bar out of a gear puller and something to support the H-bar on - a few pieces of square tubing cut off short will work. Drill a hole in the disk and weld a nut on the end of the rod. Center the disk on the bottom of the sleeve (you can weld a couple little pieces on it to center it better), run your piece of redi-rod up from the bottom, put your H-bar on the tubing on the deck and install another nut and washer over the rod where it comes through the bar. Then just screw the nut down the rod and it will pull them right out. It's a little crude but far less expensive than a manufactured puller - especially if you only need it a few times. I've pulled dozens of sleeves with an arrangement like this. You'll probably only need to pull the sleeves up a half-inch or so and then they will slide out fairly easily. You can also get a heel bar under the flanges once you get them up that far. Clean your o-ring grooves out real well when you reassemble and lubricate your o-rings and the bottoms of the sleeves well also. John Deere sells cylinder liner o-ring lubricating soap, but Murphy's oil soaps in the little tubs works even better.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
G-MAN

05-23-2002 07:49:01




Report to Moderator
 Re: 4020D, coolant blowing out crankcase vent. in reply to Tim(nj), 05-22-2002 21:24:47  
Tim, your liner o-rings at the bottom of the bores could be leaking. If the tractor has the weep holes along the LH side of the block, check to see if they are plugged up. These holes lead to a dead space between the o-rings and are supposed to allow coolant to escape after it gets past the top ring, but they are usually plugged. Another possible leakage area would be the engine oil cooler, if your tractor is equipped with one. You might be able to remove it and have your dealer pressure-check it for you. As far as cost of an overhaul goes, it will vary widely depending on who you have do the work and what parts you use. Obviously an overhaul performed by a JD dealer with JD parts will probably be more expensive than some shadetree mechanic could do it, but it might be cheaper in the long run, and will probably have a better warranty. Just my two cents. BTW - basic engine overhaul kit with bearings and everything for a late 4020 diesel lists for around $1350 from JD - of course you will also have other odds and ends that you made need - belts, hoses, head work/valves/guides, fuel nozzles, etc. I would think that by the time you get all done, barring any major problems, you will probably have around $4000 to $5000 in it, parts and labor. Hope this give you some idea. Good luck with your tractor.

ps - I forgot, you could also POSSIBLY have a cracked block or head, but I wouldn't think so, unless the tractor was badly overheated or something.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Tim(nj) with update

05-23-2002 19:52:02




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: 4020D, coolant blowing out crankcase vent. in reply to G-MAN, 05-23-2002 07:49:01  
Thanks for the info, G-man.

I took out the weep hole plugs. All were fine except 3rd cylinder from radiator, which released coolant when opened. I drained the radiator, and the crankcase. Put water in radiator, no antifreeze. Put new oil in crankcase. Put Stop Leak pellets in radiator out of desperation (got to finish planting beans, and this is THE big tractor on the farm). Left weep hole open. After running about 20 minutes, flow of coolant out weep hole stopped. Don't notice anything blowing out vent tube now, either. Crossing my fingers, toes, even eyes that I can nurse it through the next month.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Gman

05-23-2002 18:13:48




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: 4020D, coolant blowing out crankcase vent. in reply to G-MAN, 05-23-2002 07:49:01  
G-man I have a JD 4000 I've been thinking of overhauling,and I was cautioned to check block real close around were the o-ring area that they will wash out and cause the o-rings not seal off,have you any input on this? and if you have damage in this area what is the remedy? thanks in advance Garland



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
G-MAN

05-24-2002 06:32:44




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: 4020D, coolant blowing out crankcase vent. in reply to Gman, 05-23-2002 18:13:48  
Gman - I haven't overhauled a lot of 10/20 series tractors - probably only 4 or 5 total, and I haven't seen any problem in that area. I did overhaul a lot of 3306 Cat engines when I worked for Caterpillar, and they had a similar problem. Sediment in the cooling system would collect in the ends of the blocks down around the o-ring areas on the liners (those engines had the o-rings on the liners rather than in the block), and could corrode the "ramps" that the o-ring slid into. I fixed a lot of them with plain old JB Weld. Mix up a little and work it into those areas, allow it to harden completely, and then smooth up with an emery wheel on a die grinder or something similar. Final finishing can be done with plain emery cloth. I don't know why that procedure wouldn't work in the Deere engines also, but like I said, I haven't seen an engine with that problem yet. If the tractor has had any kind of cooling system maintenance at all, I don't think you'll have a problem. Number one thing is to make sure to lubricate everything well. You'll probably be able to tell right away if you cut an o-ring at installation, as it will feel different as you slide the liner in. Good luck with your overhaul.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy