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Hand start

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Tim

05-09-2002 17:52:04




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I just puchased a 1948 hand start model D, can anyone give me any pointers on how to start it without beating myself to death. Thanks, Tim




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phil

05-10-2002 11:19:33




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 Re: hand start in reply to Tim, 05-09-2002 17:52:04  
Tim, I like to roll the flywheel backwards, then roll it forward a full turn to get a full intake stroke to prime the left cylinder. Then I slowly pull it thru until the mag clicks, often starts on first pull. This only works when the tractor was shut down in the 540 degree zone which is most of the time. If the engine shuts down in the 180 degree zone, then you have to turn the flywheel forwards thru compression at least once to prime the left cylinder.

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Theman

05-10-2002 07:59:48




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 Re: hand start in reply to Tim, 05-09-2002 17:52:04  
One other comment on starting your D: Use good body mechanics. Grasp the flywheel so your hands are at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions when the impulse of the magneto trips. This will become easier with experience. Use your left hand to push down just as much as you pull up with your right. Don't get in a hurry. It is more important to bring the compression up firmly and steadily than quickly. Putting both of your hands together and yanking at the top of the flywheel is one of the worst and most tiring ways to start it. By using a good technique, you have your balance when the engine starts. This leaves you free to immediately attend to things like the choke - and in the case of your D - walk around the rear wheel and adjust the throttle.

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Larry W.

05-10-2002 05:40:55




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 Re: hand start in reply to Tim, 05-09-2002 17:52:04  
I have a 38 D. last week, my 14 year old Granddaughter started "her tractor" by herself for the first time. She is finally taller than the flywheel. All the advice you have been given has been good, except the part about the pitcocks. If your D has any compression at all, you will not be able to turn it over without those open.

when I do mine, I have the throttle cracked open, compression release pitcocks open, and choke on full. I roll the flywheel overslowly without letting it go backwards against compression until it fires or gas squirts out the vents. If it doesn't start on the first fire with the choke on, take the choke off and roll her again. It will start if all is working properly. Mine is easy to flood, so I leave the choke off once I have gasoline or it has fired. that seems to be the key with mine, not too much choke.

Hope this helps.

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Clooney

05-10-2002 03:52:48




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 Re: hand start in reply to Tim, 05-09-2002 17:52:04  
Tim, you can fight with that "D" or kind of coax it into starting, depending on how strong you are & how much energy you want to spend.
~The easiest way to start that hand start "D" is with a flat belt & an "H".
~On my own H/S "D's" I usually open the petcocks then slowly bring it to just before the mag snaps on L/H compression then work the flywheel back & forth between bottom dead center & just before top dead center [don't go so far as to let the mag snap] until gas sprays out of the L/H petcock. As soon as gas spits out, I roll it slowly through the full compression past the mag snapping & away it goes [hopefully]. It usually starts the first time over this way [if it misses firing or floods you are in for a fight]
~Another way that usually works good is if at a show, just ask someone in the crowd [one usually gathers when hand starting a "D"] if they have ever hand started a "D" before, & if anyone would like to try it, some young fellow wanting to show how strong he is will usually step forward to show his strength, if he starts it you are way ahead of the game, if he doesn't you can always just s-l-o-w-l-y turn the flywheel through the compression or work the flywheel to fill the cylinders with fuel/air then over & away she goes [maybe].
~The biggest secret I have found is to shut the fuel off & let the carb run out of fuel, if the engine is hot move the throttle to WOT after shut down to let the vapors out of the intake, keep fresh gasoline in the tank & above all else [KEEP THE MAG & WIRES DRY].

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gary

05-09-2002 19:59:15




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 Re: hand start in reply to Tim, 05-09-2002 17:52:04  
Tim,
My answer may confuse you more than help you, but bear with me and I'll tell you my experience. I am no authority, and I have "B"s, and am not familiar with "D"s at all, but I have a feeling most of the hand start two cylinders have the same characteristics. (Others will hopefully correct me if I am wrong.) First of all, if your mag and carburetor are working OK, more than half the battle is won. Make sure you have the appropriate spark plug and that you have good spark when cranking, (especially on those "D"s, I've seen the size of those flywheels!) I have a hand start '41 B, and this has been my experience. I initially would leave the gas on when I shut it down, just stall the engine by stepping on the brake and engaging the clutch.
I was told that was detrimental, and you should shut the fuel supply off and let the tractor run the fuel out of the carberetor. (The reason being, if you don't physically shut the fuel off, the gas may flow pass the carb and into the motor, creating many problems) When I would start it I would choke it full for one crank, set the throttle at about 1/3, open the compression reliefs, and it would generally fire and start right off, but if it didn't start on that first crank I was doomed for a lot of yanking, and some times had to give up. Since I began shutting the fuel off and letting the tractor idle to a stop, starting has been easier. It rarely starts on the first crank, but almost 100 per cent of the time starts within 5 cranks. I don't leave the compression relief open for every spin of the flywheel either...I usually open it for the first "choke on" pull, close it, and then crank two or three times with it closed. I may open it one more time if it hasn't started by then, but usually don't have to.
One thing I have noticed...I used to pull with all my might, trying to get that old flywheel spinning like a whirling dervish in the hopes that on one of the revolutions that the tractor would start, but that seems counter productive. Now I just gently tug the flywheel, and it jumps right out of my hand when it starts.
You may get several replys to your post, and all of the may be different, but all may have some value. Experiment a little with each suggestion until you find something that will work. The most important thing I can reiterate is that your carb has to be working correctly and your ignition has to be correct, or you are in for a long, hard day. If you can get adequate fuel and spark to these old dudes, they will start pretty good.
Good luck and let me know how you make out...I would like to own one of those old sodbuster Ds myslef someday.
gary

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Rman

05-09-2002 19:59:07




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 Re: hand start in reply to Tim, 05-09-2002 17:52:04  
Well the best thing you can do is leave the compression releases closed, haha. Really the only trick is to have a hot spark and a really good carb. You don't have to crank it as hard as you can. If you have good ignition and carb it should pop right off. Another thing is to keep good plugs in it.



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