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50-shaped piece of rust (belt pulley bolts)

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David H. Ransom

05-06-2002 20:43:54




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I did two things with the tractor-shaped piece of rust today. I put the kerosene in the engine, and I loosened the belt pulley nuts. The clutch\pulley lever was stuck in the pulley position. When I loosened the nuts, the clutch got unstuck. Also, the bolts or nuts got stripped. Are they regular bolts that could be bought in a hardware store�? How difficult is it to replace them�?




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Ron Buser

05-10-2002 20:32:19




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 Re: 50-shaped piece of rust (belt pulley bolts) in reply to David H. Ransom, 05-06-2002 20:43:54  
It sounds as if you could use some guidence about your tractor. Myself like you started my 1940 model A with no experience. I found a tremendous amount of info from this site along with a few others.If you haven't been to yesterdays tractors site to do some shopping, you should, they have just about any manual and parts catalog you would need for your tractor. But be prepared to pay for them though, they are pricey.I bought both books for my tractor and it cost $70. But it was money well spent. there are IT manuals also, that tell how to do certain jobs also, they are shop books that are available everywhere online and at alot of local farm stores . they are cheaper.These manuals are for quick reference and do not tell all the tricks to getting stubborn pieces apart, but they do help, and sometimes are faster at getting answers you need. than waiting online.the parts catalog also gives you origanal part numbers, that you can probably still get through John Deere, or cross reference to another supplier.anyways good luck on your project, and keep the old tractor alive!!!!!

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Bob K

05-07-2002 09:00:58




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 Re: 50-shaped piece of rust (belt pulley bolts) in reply to David H. Ransom, 05-06-2002 20:43:54  
The bolts are special. They have an oval-shaped head behind the clutch that moves the clutch dogs that squeeze the clutch plates against the driving disk to transmit power from the crankshaft to the transmission.

1. Remove the clutch lever rod.

2. Remove the four bolts on the clutch fork housing (where the pulley brake attaches)and slide the C-shaped clutch fork forward and out of the housing. This will allow the pulley to slide off the crankshaft once the driving disk is removed (see next step).

3. Remove the crankshaft bolt in the center of the pulley. Verify timing marks on the driving disk and the crankshaft as it is balanced. Make your own timing marks (scribe or paint) if none are visible. Use a puller of some type to pull the driving disk off the crankshaft. (I used a metal plate with 1/2" bolts on the end of the crankshaft to press the disk off.)

4. Once the driving disk is off, the pulley will slide off the tractor. Keep things organized so you can put them back in the right order. Then you'll be able to get at those bolts.

NOTE: You may have to move the rear wheel out in order to get the pulley off the crankshaft. I hope your wheels are already out far enough.

This all sounds easier than it really is and it may take you a couple days if things are stuck together pretty bad. Post back if you have more questions and stick with the "tractor-shaped piece of rust" as we can all relate.

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David H. Ransom

05-07-2002 09:06:04




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 Re: Re: 50-shaped piece of rust (belt pulley bolts) in reply to Bob K, 05-07-2002 09:00:58  
They're not so stripped that they fall off, and the clutch seems to do its thing. The pulley can turn with it back, but not with the clutch lever forward. Today I took the three nuts off and took out everything that comes out with just those nuts off, and I found that the bolts have holes drilled in them and pieces of wire through the holes.



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Bob K

05-07-2002 10:00:20




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 Re: Re: Re: 50-shaped piece of rust (belt pulley bolts) in reply to David H. Ransom, 05-07-2002 09:06:04  
The three nuts should be castellated so you can put a cotter pin or saftey wire through the end of the bolts and keep the nuts from turning. Sounds like your clutch is working right. The nuts on my clutch are just a bit tighter than finger tight for the correct "snap" once it is fully engaged. I rely on those cotter pins to keep everything from unadjusting itself.

You're doing okay.



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