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Clooney
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G oil pressure regulating valve question

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G-MAN

05-06-2002 17:17:38




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What is the best way to remove the oil pressure regulating valve from the filter can without damaging either. My I&T book is pretty vague on this subject. Are there bolts that come up through the bottom of the can into the valve housing? This is how it looks to me, but I haven't flipped the main case over to get a closer look, either. Any help is greatly appreciated, as always.

ps - I really don't want to remove the can if I don't have to - it didn't appear to be leaking before disassembly.

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DPOST

05-07-2002 10:58:24




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 Re: Clooney - G oil pressure regulating valve question in reply to G-MAN, 05-06-2002 17:17:38  

G-Man & Clooney

Thanks for a very informative dialogue as I to am contemplating low oil presure problems on our GM. The tractor had set outside and hand't run for about 5 years when I convinced my dad that we really aught to put the tractors in the shed. At that time it took about a half a day of tinkering to get the GM ready to start. Things like draining water out of the transmission and a fresh oil change oiling cylenders and getting spark. When we got around to starting it, it fired right up except for the indignity of having to be pulled by an Allis Chalmers half its size as the starter also didn't work. When it started it ran good and had good oil presure ( slightly above H on the gague ) but after it ran for about ten to fifteen minutes the presure dropped to where slightly above the L. At that time the objective was to get the tractor inside and since it still had enough presure to run I did just that. Its since been parked for seven years but at least its been inside.

I am finally getting to it, and started working on the starter last week. I plan to pull the top cover and as a mimimum clean the oil pump screen and wash the crank case down. When I last drained the oil, the oil at the bottom of the sump seemed gritty. The grit seemed little grains of carbon. my guess that they had flaked off while the engine was sitting. Any way your detailed discussion proves to be quite timely as I am hoping to pull the crank case cover this weekend to look around.

I too like G-man find it hard to figure how the regulator head and oil filter system work from pictures in I&T and the JD parts book.

So how does the JD oil system work? It looks me like the pump sends oil to the regulator head on the filter and from there the oil is distributed.

What is the oil flow path through the filter? Like where is the goes-into and goes-out-of ?

Is the oil filter in the full flow of the oil pump or is it just filtering the excess that is bypassed by the presure regulator?

Thanks and thanks for any additional information you may have to offer

D.D.Post

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G-MAN

05-07-2002 13:41:40




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 Re: Re: Clooney - G oil pressure regulating valve question in reply to DPOST, 05-07-2002 10:58:24  
Dpost - I am far from an expert on the two-cylinder oiling system, as you can tell. I believe that you're correct on the flow path, though. Oil flows from the pump to the pressure regulating valve. I don't know, but I assume that excess oil is returned to sump, while full flow goes through the filter. I would imagine the oil flows from the outside of the filter to the inside - as there is much greater surface area on the outside of the filter than the inside. From there the oil is distributed to the mains and eventually the rods and wrist pins. Oil also goes to the camshaft, governor and exhaust rocker arms. This is mostly speculation, but that's how it appears to me. I'm sure Clooney knows the systems inside and out and he can fill in any blanks or outright mistakes on my part. I also have another question of my own for Clooney. Why does oil only drip on the exhaust rockers through the drip rail in the valve cover? What ensures that the intake rockers receive adequate oil? Just excess running down the shaft from the exhaust rockers?

ps Dpost - while you have the crankcase cover off, I would check rod clearance and adjust as required - if it is excessive, it can cause low oil pressure. Spec is .002" to .004" - it's easy to check with plastigage. Also check the condition of the babbit in your rods and possible crank end play, etc. The I&T books do cover those procedures in a little more detail. Good luck with your GM - I hope to own one someday.

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Clooney

05-07-2002 14:51:47




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 Re: Re: Re: Clooney - G oil pressure regulating valve question in reply to G-MAN, 05-07-2002 13:41:40  
DPOST--G-MAN, you guys pretty well have the oiling system figured out. The filter is full flow with excess pressure/volume returning to the sump via the pressure relief valve. On some engines not all the oil goes through the filter [the important oil does] but sometimes the rocker oil doesn't
~The intake rockers are lubed from oil splash & oil mist in the rocker area. The engine speed should be kept up insure proper oil mist & splash.
~ The intakes don't use valve seals so direct oil on the intake valve stems would result in oil burning & stem/head coking. The exhaust valve stems are oiled as much for cooling as lubrication.
~Be careful using Plastigage on worn rod & main journals as they wear egg shaped & Plastigage is hard to use at all positions, so you end up only checking at the positions that the rod nuts can be removed & that is usually at the loose points so you end up with tight bearings.....

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Clooney

05-06-2002 17:33:48




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 Re: Clooney - G oil pressure regulating valve question in reply to G-MAN, 05-06-2002 17:17:38  
G-MAN, are you talking about just the regulator valve,or the complete oil filter head? You are referring to the bolts that come through the can so probably the filter head?
~If the whole filter head, you will have to pull the filter outlet out the bottom [the tube with plate on it with 2 holes in the side of it] make a bent wire tool to go into the side holes & if made long enough with a loop you can use a pipe or heavy rod to slam down on the bent wire to pull the outlet down & out. Once out you will find bolts inside the filter can that once removed will allow the filter head to be removed.

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Jerry S

05-07-2002 06:26:54




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 Re: Re: Clooney - G oil pressure regulating valve question in reply to Clooney, 05-06-2002 17:33:48  
Gman, I had to do that repair and found that the handiest wire to make the filter outlet tool with was the handle from a 5 gallon bucket. It had most of the bending done for me and was the right diameter and length. I bought a new canister from Deere and it was made too big. Ended up straightening my old canister.



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G-MAN

05-06-2002 18:05:12




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 Re: Re: Clooney - G oil pressure regulating valve question in reply to Clooney, 05-06-2002 17:33:48  
Clooney, I was referring to the whole filter head, I guess - but it sounds like it may be rather difficult to get out. Is there a good way to clean out the head without removing it? It's the only part I didn't remove from the main case and I'd hate to ruin all of my engine work if there is some contamination in it. Could a guy just remove the adjusting screw, spring etc and flush it out good with brake cleaner or something like that? Do I need to worry about the gasket between the head and the can and the one between the two sections of the head? Thanks for your help.

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Clooney

05-06-2002 18:18:56




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 Re: Re: Re: Clooney - G oil pressure regulating valve question in reply to G-MAN, 05-06-2002 18:05:12  
G-MAN, you really should remove that filter head, not so much to clean it, but to inspect the top of the filter can & replace that blasted gasket. ~The filter can top being distorted from the filter cover being overtightened & a blown out gasket are a major cause of low oil pressure.
~There is no way I would get as close to removing that cover as you are & not inspect the gasket & can top.
~Once you get that outlet out the rest is a piece of cake.....

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G-MAN

05-06-2002 18:24:38




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Clooney - G oil pressure regulating valve question in reply to Clooney, 05-06-2002 18:18:56  
You're right Clooney - it would be stupid to be that close and not tear into it. The tractor didn't seem to have a lot of oil pressure when I had it running before disassembly. It never knocked or anything and seemed to be oiling the rods adequately, but I still wasn't impressed. The gauge that was in it was an old Stewart-Warner that read to about 60 psi - which isn't real handy for checking oil pressure in a two-cylinder, as you know. I turned the adjusting screw clear in and it didn't seem to make much difference, so I probably have a problem in there somewhere. Thanks for the info and the quick responses.

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Clooney

05-06-2002 18:33:01




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clooney - G oil pressure regulating valve question in reply to G-MAN, 05-06-2002 18:24:38  
G-MAN, I should have mentioned, I use a very thin coating LocTite 518 gasket eliminator on that gasket between the filter head & can top to act as a gasket reinforcement. I haven't had one blow if the can top isn't distorted but I don't want to ever have to go back in & replace that gasket if I can help it.....



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G-MAN

05-06-2002 18:38:31




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clooney - G oil pressure regulating valve question in reply to Clooney, 05-06-2002 18:33:01  
How much distortion is too much on the filter top? Can they be straightened or should it just be replaced? I definitely don't want to be in there again for a long time (more like never), so I want it right the first time. Thanks again.



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Clooney

05-06-2002 18:55:37




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clooney - G oil pressure regulating valve question in reply to G-MAN, 05-06-2002 18:38:31  
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G-MAN, I really don't know how much distortion is too much. The more it's distorted the more apt the gasket is to blow out.
~New cans are hard to find & good used ones are hard to get out so no one likes to sell them to you.
~ I have straightened some with a hammer & steel shaft, I have pulled some cans to straighten in the press. If you have a distorted can & straighten it, you probably want to make sure you never overtighten the filter cover or it probably will bend easier the next time.
~Look at the attached picture closely & you can see the filter head sitting at a slight angle to the can. That head had a leaking gasket so you can see it doesn't take much.....

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G-MAN

05-07-2002 06:30:10




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clooney - G oil pressure regulating valve question in reply to Clooney, 05-06-2002 18:55:37  
Thanks for the pic Clooney. I know mine isn't distorted anywhere near that much, if at all. That is surprising considering how screwed up everything else is/was on this tractor. I'm still planning on getting that apart, though. It looks to me that a new can is still available from Deere, for about $85. I know I will need new oil pump gears, and those are a little pricey as well. Is there anything else in particular I need to check real close in the lubrication system? Thanks for any info.

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