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Floor Pan Screws.

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POPPER DICK

05-03-2002 04:53:32




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Any ideas on how to get the floor pan screws out of my 620 floor pan. I don't know how JD ever expected to get a 3/8 bolt out using a screw driver type device. I would like to clean and paint under it. Also it makes it easier to remove the turning brake assemblies which I aim to do soon for bushing replacement.

Thanks in advance

Dick




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mike

05-03-2002 20:23:21




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 Re: Floor Pan Screws. in reply to POPPER DICK, 05-03-2002 04:53:32  
I have had good luck using an air hammer with a straight round punch attachment and working at an angle at edge of screw to unscrew it. The air hammer works alot better than a regular hammer. I also found the same type of screws at a local
nut and bolt place but with a allen head I use these with neverseez and then dab some silicone
gasket maker in allen hole to keep out junk.It is easily poped out if you need to remove the screws.

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Ralph

05-03-2002 08:04:20




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 Re: Floor Pan Screws. in reply to POPPER DICK, 05-03-2002 04:53:32  
Mine came out relatively easy. Heated with the propane torch, applied PB Blaster while hot, then used a punch to tap first on one side of the slot and then the other until I could see the screw was wiggling. throw the screw drive away, get a drag link socket for your breaker bar. One advantage I may have had, was that the tractopr was in a shed while not being used.



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ET

05-03-2002 07:40:12




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 Re: Floor Pan Screws. in reply to POPPER DICK, 05-03-2002 04:53:32  
Set a 1/2" nut on the screw head and plug weld it on with a lot of heat (I use 150amps) wait until
the color goes out of the nut then screw it out with a wrench. I like E6011 rod because it doesn't make a lot of slag and strikes an arc easy in the nut. I use a regular 1/2" capscrew in my floor plates when I put them back on with never-seize on the them. I know its incorrect but it makes life easier later on.

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Blksmok

05-03-2002 07:10:17




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 Re: Floor Pan Screws. in reply to POPPER DICK, 05-03-2002 04:53:32  
Popper...I've removed these screws on my JD70's and JD720's by chiseling the head off of the screws and then removing the rest of the screw with a vise-grip. I've found that they turn hard due to the rust between the floor plate and the beveled screw head and they can be turned out easily after the head is removed and the floor plate is lifted off. The hammering with the chisel probably also helps in loosening the remaing threaded portion of the screw

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Mike

05-03-2002 05:19:19




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 Re: Floor Pan Screws. in reply to POPPER DICK, 05-03-2002 04:53:32  
Don't know how much different your 620's screws are from the ones on my 'A', but I had a terrible time getting mine out. The floor pan screws on my tractor were thick bolts like you describe with a tapered flat head that has a straight slot in it.

Screw drivers were futile but I was able to drill and extract one of the screws. The other was so siezed, it broke my extractor. I was finally able to get it out by using a hammer and an old countersink. By placing the countersink in the slot near the outside edge of the head and whacking it with a hammer, I was finally able to get the little bugger to move.

I'd soak it in penetrating fluid for a bit, then try a big screwdriver or piece of flat steel. If that doesn't work, break out the drill and extractors!

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POPPER DICK

05-03-2002 05:26:23




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 Re: Re: Floor Pan Screws. in reply to Mike, 05-03-2002 05:19:19  
Thanks Mike,

As I told F- I - T, I'll break out the muscle, heat and chisel/punches this morning and go for it.

Dick



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F-I-T

05-03-2002 05:14:06




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 Re: Floor Pan Screws. in reply to POPPER DICK, 05-03-2002 04:53:32  
Popper Dick:

Over the years, I have used different and progressivly destructive methods.

First method is to use and impact driver with a straight bit. Generally only works after they have been loose recently.

Use some propane heat. Just on the top, and only if you plan on repainting the floor pan (which it will need on the underside).

Use a chisel/punch. If you plan on replacing the bolts, you can probaly get them to spin using a chisel off center.

Drill off the head. This will leave you with a stub you can grab onto. Most destructive/but effective for me.

Last time I had to remove these, I did not have a welder, so now I would weld a nut to the bevel headed screw, and I bet it would crank right out.

F-I-T

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