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52 B (john t or clooney)

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39B

05-01-2002 18:08:33




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Whats the phil guy saying about maybe is a distributer- what do i do if its a distributer- i am pretty sure its not but the tractor is not here at my house at the current time????




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Leroy

05-02-2002 05:22:37




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 Re: 52 B (john t or clooney) in reply to 39B, 05-01-2002 18:08:33  
What the others are saying is good but the first thing to check is if it has a dristributor it will have an ignitation switch, make shure that is working and you have power at the out end of switch, sounds like a simple switch went bad, rusted, from lack of use



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Clooney

05-01-2002 18:26:28




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 Re: 52 B (john t or clooney) in reply to 39B, 05-01-2002 18:08:33  
39B, if you are not sure if it has a distributor or not & if it has a wire running to it, just remove the wire going to dist or mag with the engine running. (not the plug wires) ~If the engine quits, it has a distributor, if the engine keeps running or there isn't a wire running to it, then you have a mag.....



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39B

05-01-2002 18:25:50




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 Re: 52 B (john t or clooney) in reply to 39B, 05-01-2002 18:08:33  
Yes!! It is a distributer!! SORRY for the mistake What do I do now??? I AM REALLY SORRY



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Clooney

05-01-2002 18:34:19




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 Re: Re: 52 B (john t or clooney) in reply to 39B, 05-01-2002 18:25:50  
39B, if you are sure it has a distributor then disregard the mag detail.
~You probably should start over on the starting problem & explain how you actually get it started & when the problem started. ~Try to explain anything else you know about what is happening & as much history on the problem as you can.
~Do you own a volt meter & if so know how to use it? .....



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39B

05-01-2002 18:43:29




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 Re: Re: Re: 52 B (john t or clooney) in reply to Clooney, 05-01-2002 18:34:19  
Sorry i forgot something again- After we got it would cut(shorted out) out because the wire going to the battery was badly cut so we taped it up with electrical tape! But it worked after we did this and we were driving it around for a few days! But then stopped starting. _--Could it be something with the carb cause ever since we got it when it was running there was frost on the right side of the carb (maybe connecting to the manifold?? and it was also dripping alittle here but we tightened the bolts and it no longer leaked. Thanks Again

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39B

05-01-2002 18:39:14




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 Re: Re: Re: 52 B (john t or clooney) in reply to Clooney, 05-01-2002 18:34:19  
Ok..When we bought the tractor it was running good and it started decent(it always took a few times to turn over) Then we didnt use it for probably 1-2 months and we had problems starting. It never actually fires it just turns and turns and turns over now! i probably have a volt meter (tester?? we have those yeah) i know how to use that a little but my dad is real good with it. What do we need to do to the distributor??? Let me know if more info is needed- i really appreciate your time! thanks

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Clooney

05-02-2002 03:45:43




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: 52 B (john t or clooney) in reply to 39B, 05-01-2002 18:39:14  
39B, start by draining the old gasoline & installing new. Gasoline goes stale after sitting for a while & the light ends [the parts of gasoline that aid starting] evaporate & turn sour, so new gasoline would be a good place to start.
~Next, as John said, install new points & spark plugs & see if that helps the starting problem.
~If it still has problems starting you will have to use the volt meter & test for voltage at the distributor during cranking. I don't know what distributor you have, so can't tell you what to check for & where. ~Let me know what distributor you have {�Wico�-looks like a mag, or �Delco�-looks more like a conventional distributor} & I will give you test voltages, places to test, & the point gap (the point gap is different for a Wico or Delco).
~If you have a compression tester you should run a cold cranking compression test (let us know the results).
~Also make sure the carburetor choke is closing, & the choke plate isn't bent or mis-installed, & the spring & pin under the little cap on the choke shaft isn't broken or the pins haven�t jumped to the wrong side of each other, (remove the air inlet elbow & visually make sure the choke is closing, an improper operating choke is a big factor in a 2 cylinder Deere starting.
~Post back as you need more help after eliminating some of the basics above���...

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John T

05-01-2002 21:10:36




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: 52 B (john t or clooney) in reply to 39B, 05-01-2002 18:39:14  
If it has a distributor and coil ignition, the first thing you need for it to work is for near battery voltage to be present on the high (battery) side of the coil when you turn on the ignition. The other low side of the coil hooks to the distributor where it goes through the points (when closed) to ground. A test lamp or voltmeter should show near battery voltage on the coil's high side, and on the low (to distributor) side, it should go on (when points are open) and off when points are closed. If you turn on the ignition and crank her over, the high side should stay lit up and the low side go on and off if the points are working properly. The first thing I would check (if the coil has power on high side when ignition is on) is the point gap when open (around 0.015 to 020) on high cam and their condition. Im writign a series of articles upcoming in Green Magazine to troubleshoot these systems since it gets a lil too long winded for here, but the above should get you started. You have to have power to the coils hign side and teh low side has to be gorounded (when points are closed) and ungrounded when open, or it will never produce a spark, plus the cap and rotor and wires and plugs must also be operative. If all else is okay, try a fresh set of Autolite 388 plugs, but the ignition points are my first suspect (sometienms a shorted condensor) in a coil ignition failure. Let us know Ol John T

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